Christchurch, Dunnedin and Fiordland

We docked in the port town of Lyttleton, which is a short distance from the city of Christchurch. There are mountains separating the port city of Lyttleton from the flat valley where Christchurch is located. There are 2 ways to get to Christchurch. The old way is over the mountain on winding roads or paths. The new way is through a tunnel through the mountain. We were able to experience both ways to get to Christchurch. We took the mountain pass called Dyers Pass. It wound around and around the mountain on narrow 2 lane roads with steep inclines. I should say it was a dreary cloudy day with lots of drizzle so this added to the “excitement” of going over the pass. Along the way we saw many sheep grazing sideways up and down the mountain. The ride was beautiful but I was glad to make it to the other side. The second way to Christchurch is the tunnel. The tunnel is about 2 miles long and takes you right through the mountain. Very fast but not as picturesque. Christchurch was as you might expect full of quaint old churches. In the city center we found the old Cathedral. For $5 NZ, you could climb the steps in the steeple. Since it was cold and rainy we passed and instead had a hot chocolate at the Starbuck’s across the street from the church! (Yes, a Starbucks, not to mention a McDonalds, Subway and Burger King not too far away.) The city center was really very cosmopolitan for a small town on the South Island however. There were many little trendy shops and small cafes and a wonderful little Trolley that ran through the city to all the major tourist stops. While in Christchurch we visited a historic Victorian house now preserved and maintained by the city called Mona Vale. There we were treated to an English tea. We had scones and cucumber sandwiches. I learned the proper way to eat the scones is that you first spread some butter on a piece, then jam and on top you put clotted cream! Wow – a new taste sensation but definitely not approved by Jenny Craig! After tea we walked through the Botanical Gardens and along the Avon River which is a lovely small stream through the city. There are punts, which are long flat boats that are propelled by a man with a long stick, that you can take for a ride on the Avon. All very British indeed! Again we were entranced with another different but wonderful city in New Zealand.
The next morning the sun was shining and we were in Dunnedin, actually docked in Port Chalmers which is a short drive away. We had a tour of the city and our guide Stuart told us that the day was like a “box of fluffies”. This apparently means it’s all good or something like that. We also learned that the New Zealanders call children “wee dots”. These were 2 of Stuart’s favorite phrases. Our first stop was Baldwin Street, which is supposed to be the world’s steepest city street. The Cadbury Chocolate Company is located in Dunnedin and every year the company sponsors a charity event where they roll 20,000 “lollies” (lollipops) down the street and people buy chances to catch the lollies as they roll because one contains a valuable prize. After a drive through the city and a stop near the Cadbury Chocolate plant we are taken to Olverton House. This was one of the original family homes in Dunnedin and is remarkably maintained. It has all the original furniture and decoration exactly as the family left it. It was an interesting tour and an informative lesson in the history of this quaint and lovely city. After the tour we had time to shop and knock around on our own. We happened upon the Seafarer’s Club in Port Chalmers, a short walk from the ship. It’s a place the town of Port Chalmers has set up for sea travelers to come and relax and it offered FREE internet (!! )and cheap phone cards. There was also a black and white cat sleeping on the couch in the lounge area which made it a very special place for sure. We visited with the nice lady who oversees the club and she gave us a free phone card as well. A lot of the crew of the Amsterdam had found this spot also. Ever since arriving in New Zealand, all our guides told us to try “hokey pokey ice cream”. I was able to sample this delight in Port Chalmers and while very tasty, not any better than good old Ben and Jerry’s Cherry Garcia. Dunnedin was a relaxing and fun stop.
After Dunnedin, we set off to view the area called Fiordland on the western side of the South Island. The ship arrived at Dusky Sound around 8am the next day after we left Dunnedin. We then slowly proceeded to cruise in and out of the sound while everyone admired the scenery and looked for wildlife. After Dusky Sound we cruised up the coast and then entered Doubtful Sound. We saw high peaks and beautiful waterfalls along the way, each one more splendid than the previous one. Finally by late afternoon we entered Milford Sound, the highlight and most famous of the Fiordland wilderness. As we sailed in the water was smooth and the sun was shining. We cruised to the end of the sound and then the ship slowly turned around. As we turned the captain announced that we were now going to begin heading out to the Tasman Sea to begin our journey to Australia.