Funchal, Madeira

The sail out of Gibraltar was inspiring. The passage through the Straits of Gibraltar once again gave us a sense of the strategic importance of this area and why it must always be open to all who choose to travel through in peace and harmony. Then we were in the Atlantic and the fact that we were on our way home really sunk in. This has been an amazing journey, one we will never forget, but we are really ready to see our family and be home. The last stop before we begin our voyage westward was Funchal, Madeira. Madeira is a Portuguese archipelago off the west coast of Africa. It is composed of 5 islands, the largest and most populated is also called Madeira. Funchal, the capital city of Madeira, is a sleepy resort town with a European attitude and a Portuguese history. The island is lush with beautiful and colorful exotic flowers growing everywhere. The town is clean and well maintained and the people very friendly. We took a lovely cable car up to the highest point to an area called Monte. The views were impressive but sadly, no monkeys!! In the old days, the inhabitants got off the peak by sliding down the steep and winding streets on toboggans. These are large wicker basket-like things on runners. There is a seat that holds two people inside and as you slide down the streets, two men ride along and use their feet or turn the basket sideways to keep you from careening down too fast. Today, this “ride” is a tourist attraction and of course we did it!! The clever Madeirans now even have someone along the route who takes you photo and then what do you know – a printed glossy souvenir photo is available for purchase at the end of the ride!! Of course, the men guiding your basket tip their straw hats and expect you to put a donation inside also! Regardless, the experience was fun and not to be missed. Another stop in Madeira is to sample the Madeira wine. We did that also but did not find the taste at all to our liking so no souvenir wine items were purchased at this stop. We spent the rest of the day walking around the town since we didn’t want to get back to the ship until right before we sailed. Madeira was the last stop before 5 sea days so once we boarded that was it for land for awhile until Bermuda. In Funchal, we found an open air flower market and a fish market used by the locals. We ate at an outdoor café and of course had the local brew. (I sampled the local ice cream also which didn’t mix well with the beer!) It was a pleasant way to spend the afternoon. Once back on board we watched as the ship sailed out of the port of Madeira. Now we were headed directly west on a rhumb line to Bermuda. A rhumb line is a nautical term for a straight line route from one point to another which crosses the longitudes at the same angle. As I write this we are now about halfway across the line, so you should be able to locate us on a map if you’re so inclined.

Gibraltar

As we docked in Gibraltar we pulled alongside a large cliff. We looked out our window and wondered if this was THE Rock of Gibraltar. It was! Gibraltar is a tiny country on the southern tip of Spain. There is an airport runway separating the two countries. There is a road that crosses the runway that takes you to Spain but you better be careful to heed the stoplights or you will not make it there in one piece. Gibraltar is built on the hillsides up the cliffs. The roads are narrow and winding. No large vehicles here – lots of tiny strange looking cars and mopeds. If you want to get to the top of the Rock the best way is the cable car. So on a cool but clear morning we boarded the cable car and made it to the top! Even though we rode the cable car up, there were still a lot of steps to finally get to the viewing area. Of course there was a restaurant and souvenir shop called the Top of the Rock up there as well. The first things we saw as we climbed up to the top were the famous Barbary apes! The apes live on the rock and are protected by the government. We had been warned to avoid carrying food or wearing anything loose or dangly that might attract their curiosity. Also there were signs posted saying not to feed them or face a stiff fine. These tailless apes were not afraid of all the people and really checked us out. They went wherever they wanted to and looked at us like “this is my turf so get away”! Several people had their hats taken by the monkeys and a couple people who got in the way when they were climbing or jumping found themselves with monkeys on their backs. I can now honestly say how it feels to have a monkey on my back because one jumped on me! He jumped right off so it was no big deal, just gave me a surprise. The apes were cute and cuddly and I wanted to hold them but of course did not. The babies were really cute. It was really fun to watch them. All the monkeys have names and are cared for by the government so they looked fat and happy. Most of my Gibraltar pictures are of monkeys!! Anyway, at the top of the Rock the views were spectacular and we could see the strategic importance of this piece of land and why so many battles have been fought to control it. We were told that though Gibraltar is currently a British protectorate, Spain would like it back and negotiations between the two governments occur periodically. The residents have voted repeatedly not to become part of Spain so Gibraltar will stay as it is for now. At one point we went inside the Rock and toured one of the Great Siege Caves built in the days of Admiral Nelson and used again and expanded during WWII. We also went to the southernmost tip of the country and stood at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea, looking across a short distance to Africa and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. The Atlantic seemed to be calling to us as that is the way home.

Malta

We were not able to go onshore in Split, Croatia due to high winds and rough seas. The one advance tender that tried to venture to shore was tossed around pretty badly and it took a lot of maneuvering to ultimately get it returned and safely secured to the ship. No one complained about not being able to get to the city after watching the tender’s struggle. So we pulled up anchor and headed to Malta. Malta replaced Libya on our itinerary after we were denied clearance from the government. How fortunate for us, as Malta proved to be an exceptional port to visit. Malta has had a long history of conquerors from Salaman the Magnificent during the Ottoman Empire, the Romans, the Knights of the Holy Crusade, and the British to name a few. They have been independent since the early 70s. It is a prosperous and thriving country with many impressive castles, palaces and churches left from each of the conquering nations. The most magnificent site and a must see for any visitor is St John’s Co-Cathedral. It was built in the late 1500’s and the floor is lined with marble slabs, beneath each is a tomb of a knight. Each slab is decorated with designs and phrases identifying the knight’s life and personality. The church is adorned with the Maltese Cross which was representative of the Knights of Malta. The 8 point cross represents the Knight’s values of “live in truth, maintain faith, repent sins, give proof of humility, love justice, be merciful, be sincere and whole-hearted, and endure persecution”. Goods words to live by indeed! There are elaborate paintings and sculptures throughout the cathedral, including 2 major paintings by the famous artist Caravaggio. This church is in the current capital city called Valleta, which is also the port city. The old capital is called Mdina and is a walled city called the “silent city”. The streets are narrow and the buildings are medieval looking. Walking through the streets is like going back in time, at least until a car or truck tries to pass through the narrow street. Mdina is still home to a few wealthy families, but is now composed of a hotel, restaurants and shops. Horse drawn carriages can take you through the city as well as anywhere on the island for that matter. Malta has an old world charm but also offers a modern and safe environment. We had a wonderful lunch at an outdoor café across from the Cathedral with Maltese pizza and the local beer. The night before we dined at an outdoor café next to the pier called Casanova’s and had great Italian food. The official language is Maltese which is a combination of Arabic, Italian, Latin and a little Spanish which shows how the country has incorporated the languages of the cultures who ruled the country in the past. I'd come back to Malta again!!!

Venice, Italy

The morning we sailed into Venice the weather was chilly and overcast but the views were spectacular! We sailed right past St Mark’s Square and Doge’s Palace, places we would visit later but had a great view and photo op on the sail-in. The ship docked in the Piazzale Roma area and from here we could take a shuttle boat to the heart of the city. Our first day we visited the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is the island where hundreds of years ago the city fathers moved all the glass furnaces to reduce the chance of fire for the main city. Today it is the home of the famous Murano glass. We visited one of the furnaces and watched a master glass-blower make a work of art right before our eyes. We were extremely cold after the 45 minute boat trip so being near the furnace felt really great. We had some time to walk through the shops selling beautiful (and expensive) glass vases, bowls, chandeliers and all sorts of jewelry. Next we sailed to Burano, about 15 minutes away. As we approached Burano you could see the colorful houses, some red, yellow, green and even purple! On Burano, each family paints their house a different color. The colors make the town a bright and cheerful welcoming sight – even in the cold and drizzle we were experiencing at the time. Burano was an old fishing village but now it is home to several lace factories, its current specialty. We walked through the picturesque and quaint village and visited the lace shops and also found a wide selection of the Carnivale masks. The next day we had a marvelous tour of Doge’s Palace, the elaborate home of the Venetian government hundreds of years ago. There we saw the paintings of Tintoretto and Veronese among the ornate gold and wood designs. The Doge’s Palace housed a functioning seat of government so there were meeting chambers, offices and courtrooms for hearing criminal cases. Because justice was swift and punishment severe back then, there was also a prison connected to the Palace. When someone was found guilty they were sent directly through a small and narrow chamber and over the Bridge of Sighs to the stark and cold stone prison. We got to walk the narrow walkway and visit some of the cells. It was quite a contrast from the magnificent and elaborate furnishings and décor of the Palace. Directly outside the Palace is St Mark’s Cathedral and of course the Square. After a short wait in line we were able to walk inside the Cathedral. The Cathedral had a dark and gothic-like feel to me but was still stunning with its ornate Golden Altar, dome and bronze horses. After being immersed in the rich history and culture of Venice it was time for a stroll through the shops and bridges around St Mark’s Square. We saw a gondola and gondolier on one of the small canals but didn’t take a ride. (Cost was 80 Euros!) The weather was much better the second day we were in port – warmer and sunny – so we could really enjoy just being there and savoring the experience.

Santorini, Greece

As we approached the Greek isle of Santorini, it looked like there was snow high up on the mountainous top of the island. Upon closer inspection, these were white houses perched on top of this gorgeous island! We were tendered from the ship to Athinos pier. From there we took a winding bus ride up to the top of the highest peak on the island, called the Mountain of Prophet Elias. From this vantage point the views were spectacular. Then on to Oia, pronounced eea, for a visit to this lovely and quaint village. All the homes were white with blue trim. It was fun to explore the shops and galleries high up on the island, each view better than the next. We found a coffee shop and sat on a tiny balcony perched over the edge of the mountain and had coffee and bakalava. That experience will stay with me forever! Next we went to Fira, the largest city on the island. It was also filled with white buildings and narrow cobblestone alleys and walkways. I did a little exploring (shopping) and Jim found a great coffee shop with an internet café. When it was time to go back to the ship we had 3 options for getting down the mountain. One was a cable car, there was a long winding stairway of irregular cobblestone steps that you could walk on foot or you could ride a donkey down the steps!! I rode the donkey and Jim took the cable car. The donkeys know how to make their way carefully down the steps and it was a fun way to see the beauty of the island as we slowly made our way down. In contrast, Jim said the cable car took less than a couple minutes. Santorini ranks as one of our most favorite ports on this magnificent voyage and I hope we can come back someday!!

Sevastopol, Ukraine

The Ukraine has its act together and is far more modernized and tourist-friendly than Sochi, Russia. It clearly demonstrated how a previously Russian city, now independent, could prosper and grow. There were organized tour companies and very eloquent and knowledgeable guides. Their spoken English was flawless. We had a fascinating tour of the city which focused on the city’s victories during the Crimean War. It seemed they wanted to forget their time as part of Russia, and focus on the historic development of the city. That was fine with us. Sevastopol’s strategic harbor has a major significance for the defense of the city from the ancient past to modern times. The harbor was once the home of the Russian Naval fleet. In the split from Russian, the most hotly contested issue was the disposition of the vessels. It took 7 years of negotiation to come to an agreement. It was finally decided that Russia would keep 80% of the vessels and Ukraine, 20%. The Russian ships have been moved and the remaining ships in Sevastopol are now part of the coast guard for the city. We visited a Russian Orthodox Church called St Vladimir’s and saw the graves of several famous sea captains from the Crimean War era. We also visited a wonderful Panoramic Museum depicting a famous battle and then actually went to the site. It was a good visit and we really felt that the Ukraine and its people had much to offer.

Sochi, Russia

We arrived in the port of Sochi, Russia on a cold and rainy day. It stayed that way all day which made the visit a dreary one, even for Russia. The Russian people we met were nice but not overly concerned about our being there. Sochi is a resort town on the Black Sea where working class Russian people went for holidays. It is composed of many spa/hotels, none of them luxurious, and outdoor amusements like miniature golf and parks. The town is separated from the rest of Russia by the Caucasian Mountains. The city was recently picked to host the 2014 Winter Olympics based on its mountain resorts and ski facilities. A short drive to the base of the mountains is an area called Zelyonaya Roscha (Green Grove). It was here that Joseph Stalin built his dacha or summer home. Stalin’s dacha has been partially restored after years of neglect and is now used as a tourist attraction for the city of Sochi. Although most of his personal belongings and furnishings were stolen, a few remain and are placed as they were when he was there. They even have a wax figure of him sitting at his desk! It was an interesting and historical visit. The feel of Sochi in general was kind of cold, somewhat stark – what you might expect of a city recovering from years of Communism. Sochi is clearly trying to develop and grow and hosting the 2014 Winter Olympics should give the city a major boost. It just seems they have a lot of work to do before 2014!

Istanbul, Turkey

From the minute we sailed in to the port it was apparent that Istanbul was special. The history alone was mind boggling to think this city was the seat of the Byzantine Empire when it was Constantinople and the heart of the Orthodox religion. As we sailed in we saw the splendor of the mosques and palaces that were built centuries ago but still stand in proud glory and are beautifully maintained by the Turkish people. It’s hard to describe all the history that makes Istanbul. You really have to see it to begin to fully comprehend and in our 2 days we just scratched the surface. We made the most of our time though and made it to all the major sites. We saw the Hippodrome in the heart of the old part of the city where chariot races took place. We visited the Blue Mosque, the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet. It is called the Blue Mosque because inside there are thousands of blue tiles covering the walls. It is a mosque still in use today but we were allowed inside in a separate viewing area. Next we visited the Hagia Sofia which for many years was the largest church in the world. It was a Greek Orthodox Church built in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian but later converted to a mosque after the take over of the city during the Ottoman Empire. It was declared a national monument in 1935 and is now a museum. Some of the original Orthodox mosaics have been uncovered so the church now displays a mix of Muslim and Orthodox religious symbolism. The Topkapi Palace was another fabulous stop on our tour. It was built by Sultan Mehmet II. The Byzantine Empire was defeated by the Ottoman invaders at this site. It is a huge palace with many buildings to support the Sultan, his family and his support staff. The kitchens can feed 5000 people. The Harem building is where the Sultan, his wives, concubines, favorites and eunuchs lived and is still pretty much as it was centuries ago. The Ottoman Empire was vast and took riches from all over the world in their conquests. On display at the Palace is the famous Topkapi Dagger with emeralds the size of eggs and an 86 carat diamond pendant called the Spoonmaker’s Diamond. We had lunch in a restaurant near the Palace and enjoyed a traditional Turkish meal complete with Turkish coffee. VERY strong and bitter!! The last stop included a visit to the Grand Bazaar which was originally the stables for the Sultan’s horses but has for hundreds of years in recent history been a market area for the local people. Today it is a tourist destination and the market is full of stall after stall of carpet salesmen, belly dancer outfits, jewelry, knock off purses, tee shirts, and on and on. There are a few cafes and Jim had a Turkish coffee while I wondered around. The vendors were persistent but friendly and I came close to buying a belly dancer costume but we couldn’t agree on a price. (Thank goodness!!) The last evening we were in Istanbul, Holland America gave us a huge party in the Binbirdirek Cistern, an ancient underground water canal. The 1001 columned cistern was built in 330AD to hold water for Lavsus Palace. The cistern was restored recently to meet safety requirements as a tourist attraction and for the evening was converted into a Turkish party palace with tables, couches, candles, bars and food preparations everywhere. This party was open to all passengers who wanted to attend and most did. There was entertainment, belly dancers, fire eaters and folk dancers. The American Ambassador for Turkey attended and our host was the President of Holland America Line, Stein Kruse. The liquor flowed and everyone seemed to have a great time. Back on the ship, the party continued with a dessert extravaganza with a Turkish theme. More free liquor and lots of frivolity by the crew all dressed in Turkish robes and turbans. There was even a magic carpet flying above the Lido Pool!! As we left the dock there was a fireworks display. It was a late but exciting and fun evening and I must say HAL did it up in style for us. It really capped a tremendous visit to an amazing city. I highly recommend Istanbul to all.

Alexandria, Egypt

Alexandria is the port city nearest to Cairo and the Pyramids at Giza, our next destination. Once again, a long bus ride was involved, only this time it was only 3 hours long one way. Instead of a 2 lane road through the desert, we traveled on a 4 lane highway much like our interstates back home. There were even billboards along the road, all in Arabic of course. Made me think of I-70 between Columbia and St Louis! The ride was pleasant. Once we got to the outskirts of Cairo we could tell we were clearly in a large metropolitan city except for the sheep and goat herds roaming between some of the buildings. Cairo is an exotic city with many faces. There is a high rise area near the Nile with upscale apartments and hotels. Not far away are neighborhoods with outdoor markets and cafes where men are smoking the houkas or hubbly-bubbly (tobacco pipes) as the locals call them. There were men and women in western clothes as well as many in the more traditional robes and head coverings. We were to return to Cairo for a lunch on a river boat on the Nile but first we made our way to Giza for a look at the Pyramids. As we approached Giza we could see the tops of the Pyramids in the distance. It was an exciting experience. As you drive, you pass hotels, restaurants and homes just like any other town. But then all of a sudden there they are in the middle of the city. The bus pulled up to a lot a few 100 yards from one of the Pyramids and we were immediately set upon by men on camels wanting to sell rides and souvenir vendors. As we made our way for a closer look at the Pyramids we had to try to avoid the vendors who were always in your face. There were Egyptian tourist police who were supposed to be helping the visitors but in fact they were also looking for a hand out. We managed to take our pictures in front of the Pyramids and get a close look but it was frustrating to be at such an amazing and important historical site and be hassled while you were trying to take in the magnitude of what you were seeing. Nevertheless, we had a great time and ended up with several scarabs, postcards and head scarves that we bought along the way. Next we went a short distance to see the Sphinx. It sits in an open area across the street from some shops and a McDonalds. Even so, it was very impressive. You can walk into the temple (with your Sphinx ticket that is) and get a very close up look. Of course, this was another opportunity to purchase a Sphinx tee shirt or bobble head camel! By this time we had gotten pretty used to all the craziness and we had a great time. After a fun and exciting visit to one of the Seven Wonders of the World we were ready for lunch. We drove back to Cairo for an authentic Egyptian lunch on a riverboat. We cruised the Nile River while we ate. There was a small band that played some great traditional music and of course a belly dancer! She put on quite a show!! All in all, it was another fantastic day.

Suez Canal

After a much needed sea day after leaving Safaga, we lined up for our transit the next day through the Suez Canal. We began our transit at around 6AM and were the second ship in our convoy of 37 northbound ships. There was another convoy of 22 ships headed southbound. The Canal can only accommodate one way travel so when we got to the large Bitter Lake one convoy pulled over and anchored while the other convoy passed. As we transited the narrow canal we had the continent of Africa on our port side and Asia on our starboard side. We could wave and yell hello to people on the shore, most of whom were Egyptian soldiers guarding the canal. It took about 10 hours of slow and careful sailing in line. We could see the lead ship ahead of us and the long line of ships behind us. There were a few bridges across the continents and at several points ferry boat docks for transit back and forth across the canal. For the record, the Canal was opened in November 1896. It is about 101 miles long with no locks, unlike the Panama Canal. The southern entrance is Port Suez and the northern entrance is Port Said. We exited the Canal around 4PM and there we were in the Mediterranean Sea!! From there we took a southwesterly course to Alexandria Egypt.

Safaga, Egypt

The port city of Safaga was the gateway to Luxor and the Valley of the Kings. We only passed through it on our way in and out of town so I can’t really say much about the city. It was a 4 hour one way trip to Luxor through the desert. We saw camels along the way but that was about all. We made the journey in a convoy of buses, each with its own armed security guard. There were police escorts and we didn’t stop for potty breaks or food. (There was a bathroom on the bus and the ship gave us a box lunch.) Every so often there was a security checkpoint were there were many armed guards and we would have to get clearance. As we approached Luxor we began to see small villages that looked like they were out of the biblical ages. Men were long robes and drove donkey carts loaded with hay or straw. The houses were made of mud bricks with a pen for the animals attached. There were oxen, horses, goats and donkeys grazing all around. Once we got to Luxor we drove directly to the valley of the Kings. This meant we had to cross the Nile River for the first time. Once across we made our way to the west bank of Luxor to the City of the Dead in desert mountains outside of the city. This was the very hot and dry mountainous area were the ancient Pharohs buried their kings. This burial site includes the 18th, 19th and 20th dynasties of Egypt called the New Kingdom, roughly 1500 – 1070 BC. Here in 1922, Howard Carter discovered the tomb of King Tut. On on way into the valley we passed Howard Carter’s home. When we got off the bus we were immediately aware of the heat. We were also aware that we were among literally thousands of other tourists wanting a chance to visit the Valley of the Kings!! (We had 16 buses in our convoy, but there were additional buses of tour groups of people from all over the world. Lots of Russian, Japanese, French especially.) As we slowly made our way to the Visitor’s Center for a real bathroom and a brief orientation of the site, we began to realize just what we were in for. Through the Visitor’s Center we were herded onto little trams for the short ride to the entrance. There was lots of chaos as the tour guides tried to keep some of the slower people from being trampled upon by the throngs attempting to board the trams from all sides. The Eyptian site attendants did their best but they seemed overwelmed by the volume of people. I should again mention that it was extremely hot. You could feel the sun just burning your skin and there was no breeze. (We later found out it was 104 degrees F) After the short tram ride we were led to the first tomb we would visit which was Ramses II. Our tour guide gave us each a ticket for the tomb and we made our way to the small opening where an attendant had to stamp the ticket before you could enter. Picture hundreds of people all converging on one small opening with one man at the entrance. It was a long, hot process. Once inside you walked in a quasi-line on wooden planks within the tomb to view the amazing hieroglyphics and artwork which looked in some cases like it had been painted yesterday. Did I mention how hot it was?? Several of our more senior but still hardy shipmates were having serious problems with the heat and a couple had to be taken out of the area. It was not a place for anyone with any sort of disability. The tombs were amazing but because of the heat and the crowds of people it was hard to spend a lot of time really absorbing all you were seeing. Overall though I wouldn’t have wanted to miss the experience. Later we traveled back to Luxor to visit the Temple of Luxor and Karnak Temple in the evening for a sound and light show. We had an Egyptian lunch buffet at a modern hotel in downtown Luxor before the light show. Then another 4 hr bus ride back to the ship. Actually the bus looked pretty good by then!

Salala, Oman

We docked in Salala after 3 long days at sea. We were ready to get off the ship for awhile but we were not sure what to expect. Since w e docked in Salala’s highly industrial and busy port, there were strict rules about disembarking and we were not allowed to wonder around the dock area. The tour bus waited for us right next to the gangway and we were quickly escorted on board by our guide Mohamed. Mohamed was a young genteman dressed on a long white gown and a turbin. He spoke perfect English and made us feel at ease and welcome. After the congestion and mad pace of India, Salala was a pleasant change. The city, rich from recent oil discoveries, was spread out for miles with signs of continuing growth and development. Whereever you looked there was sand and the predominant color was brown. There were small patches of green in roundabouts at several intersections through the city but that was it. The roadways were modern and looked newly constructed and there were traffic lights and signs that people actually used. One traffic sign depicted a “camel crossing” symbol and as we drove through the city camels, actually dromedaries, roamed freely. When a herd of camels decided to cross the roadway all traffic stopped for them. Seeing the camels really brought home that you were in a desert. In the ancient past, Salala was the richest location for the boswellia tree which produces a resin that is used to make frankincense. In a lot of the ancient religions, frankincense was a vital part of the relious ceremony. Salala’s history and early development are attributed to its abundant spice trade, especially frankincense. Today, frankincense is still a major industry. We were taken to a souks, market, that specialized in the sale of franincense. They sold little decorative burners with charcoal chips used to burn the frankincense crystals to produce the fragrant smell of incense. Of course we bought one!! I bought mine from a beautiful woman dressed from head to toe in a black berka. Only her gorgeous eye were visible through the opening in her head covering. Nevertheless, we communicated and I sensed her kindness and sincerity in her eyes. It was one of those times when you feel you’ve made a connection with someone, however brief and no matter how different we were. Salala turned out to be an interesting and beguiling port of call. We both said that we would like to return someday and spend more time.

Mumbai, India

The sign on the cruise terminal in Mumbai read “Incredible India” Truer words could not be spoken. Mumbai is the largest and most cosmopolitan city in India. After Chennai, Mumbai offered so much more for India to be proud of and gave us a much better feeling about the country. Some of things about India seem to be consistent from city to city though. In Mumbai as in Chennai, there was LOTS of traffic with no obvious method for control. Cars, tuk tuks, trucks, humans and animal powered vehicles all compete for the right of way. It’s every man for himself driving with lots of honking but I saw no one get angry or yell at the other driver. It’s just the way things are and the Indian people deal with it. In Mumbai, we saw colorful shrines and temples all over the city just as in Chennai, but we saw many beggars, hawkers and signs of extreme poverty also. We only went to the tourist places in the main part of the city so what we saw was only a small part of a large and interesting city. The sights we did see included the main hub for their important railway system called Victoria Terminus, one of India’s most elegant buildings. We visited the Prince of Wales Museum and viewed Indian artifacts and artwork from many great artists and periods. We found some wonderful hand painted drawings in the Museum gift shop which we are bringing home. At the waterfront we visited the Gateway to India monument. This large brick arch structure welcomes all to India and has been standing since about 1926. It was being repaired when we visited but still impressive. Across from the arch we visited the famous Taj Hotel which is part of a 5 star Indian hotel chain. The bell captains wear long robes and turbins and there is a marble arcade full of designer stores. It is an elegant oasis amid the chaos of traffic, tourists and souvenir vendors around the arch. Fortunately, we didn’t see snake charmers but they were there also somewhere we were told. The most unique sight we visited was Dobi Ghat. The Dobi Ghat is a relic from the past culture and tradition in Mumbai but it continues today. It’s an outdoors laundry service that at one time supported the entire city. There are huge cement basins near a waterway and each basin is leased to a dobi whose lifelong job is to hand wash the clothes of his customers. The laundry is picked up and delivered in huge sacks carried on a cart throughout the city by the dobi’s assistant. The wash water looks murky and the clothes hang outside on clotheslines in a slum-like area of the city but our guide said the clothes come back spotless and clean. She said even though more people have washers and dryers in their homes, many people still use the Dobi Ghat purely because of tradition. The Dobis are usually illiterate and from the lowest class but they are able to make sure their clients always receive every article of clothing on time to the right household. It’s this type of rich culture and tradition that makes India so unique. It truly was an incredible experience.

Chennai, India

When we docked in the very industrial port of Chennai it was raining and the dock area was caked with dirt and mud as well as tar or coal dust. The local dock workers tried to clean it up but it was a lost cause. There was a small military band on the dock to welcome us but even they got wet and covered in the muck. We ultimately got off the ship after lots of customs and passport checks. As we boarded our bus it quickly got covered inside with the mud and soot as well and I felt sorry for our beautiful Indian lady guide who was dressed in a gorgeous sari and sandals. Her feet and the bottom of her sari were already dirty with the mud!! She seemed unconcerned and we didn’t let it stop us from touring the city. One of the things I’ve liked about the Asian ports we’ve visited has been learning about their religions. In India, Hinduism is the primary religion. We were taken to a beautiful temple with colorful figures decorating a tall pointed roof. When we arrived there was a procession going on so we got to watch the people with highly decorated carts with statues of the Gods being pulled up a busy street. There were colorful floral leis hanging from several vendor stands for use during the ceremony. There was chanting and singing. It was quite extraordinary. We couldn’t stay as long as I’d have liked because we had several stops to make and negotiating the traffic was worse than Vietnam. There were cars, trucks, motorcycles, buses and small 3 wheeled vehicles called tuk tuks wherever you looked. There were also many pedestrians walking in all directions, crossing in front of traffic. It was pretty chaotic but we were glad the bus driver was doing the driving. We visited a cathedral and the bronze museum. I liked the bronze museum the best. The bronze statues depicted the various Gods of the Hindu religion. My favorite was Ganesh, who is part elephant and part man with a round belly. (I want to learn more about him and Hinduism when I can spend more time researching on the internet when it doesn’t cost so much! ) As we drove around the city from area to the next, we got a small glimpse into the people of Chennai. We saw some beautiful houses on a narrow side street where the more affluent people resided. We drove by the downtown shopping area where gigantic posters of the Indian motion picture stars were on billboards and pasted on walls. The colorful saris of the women really stood out as they walked along the gray buildings and dusty, dirty streets. We drove by the fishing village near Marina Beach. There we saw some whose living conditions are pitiful and it was especially hard to see the little children like that. I thought of our wonderful grandchildren and was thankful. Visiting different parts of the world definitely gives you a new perspective. I wish more people could travel. Maybe we’d all get along better if we had a greater understanding of each other.

Singapore

What a nice surprise to dock in Singapore. It is a modern and clean city and after Vietnam we were ready for this change. Singapore is a mix of several cultures and religions that seem to peacefully coexist. (What a concept!!) There is a Chinatown, Little India, and Arab Town where each culture has its own temples or mosques plus a small business district and tourist area. People live in high rise buildings partially subsidized by the government with strict rules about keeping things clean and neat. There are major penalties for littering and we could not bring any chewing gum into the city. (The customs procedures and security checks were very tightly controlled.) The number of cars is also controlled to reduce pollution and congestion. There are excellent mass transit options with buses, cable cars, subway and railway operating all over the city. We were docked in Singapore for 2 days so one day we took the subway into another part of the town called the Orchard road area. We had heard they had a big Borders Bookstore and Jim was hot to trot to check it out! The subway was clean and very well organized with automated machines for ticketing and monitors in the subway car giving you all the station information. The subway was very busy but everyone waited patiently and was courteous to one another. How civilized! We really had to difficulty getting around on our own. We found the Borders which if you forgot where you really were felt just like any Borders back in St Louis, MO!! As part of a tour we visited each of the tourist areas in Chinatown, Arab Town and Little India as well as the temples and mosques. We also visited a gem factory and a botanical garden which featured hundreds of varieties of orchids. We saw the famous Raffles Hotel where the Singapore Sling was invented. We also saw the symbol of Singapore, a Merlion, half lion and half fish which sits at the entrance to the harbor to welcome visitors to the city. We didn’t go to Sentosa Island which is a small piece of reclaimed land in the harbor area being built up for tourism. Some of our friends did and said it had nice beaches and 5 star hotels. We spent a lot of time in the huge shopping mall directly adjacent to the cruise terminal. It had everything we wanted with internet and telephones plus stores to get items we needed like toothpaste, deodorant and cheap diet coke. I got brave and had my haircut in one of the salons at the mall. It was a fun experience and the haircut turned out fine also. (Cheaper than on the ship!) They served me tea and I got a nice head and neck massage thrown in as well. Most of the other passengers were doing the same things because after Singapore it will be more difficult and/or more expensive.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

We docked in Phu My but the city of Ho Chi Minh was 50 miles or so away so once again we had to take a long and harrowing bus ride into the city. The countryside of southern Vietnam is flat and dry. There was a layer of dust everywhere and the air was thick with it. Since the southern part of Vietnam is the major industrial center for the country, the roads were somewhat better constructed but still very congested with trucks and motorcycles. Once we got into the city we made our way past the old American Embassy where the last helicopters left at the end of the American involvement in Vietnam. The actual building had been torn down but the fence around the area was still there and there was a small monument commemorating the event. This was another example of how Vietnam does not wish to remember that period in their history. We went to the old Imperial Palace, which is now called Independence Palace. This was another historic site in the war. Now it is more like a museum having been fully restored after being bombed. It serves as a symbol of how Vietnam is trying to move beyond the war. I think they want to pretend that that period never existed. They are tired of war and its effects and are just trying to make a good life for themselves. Although the Communist Party controls the government in Vietnam, in Saigon especially, there is a more capitalistic environment. There was lots of free enterprise, with shops and large hotels that cater to the growing tourist economy. Our guide took us to the heart of the city center where we saw beautiful embroidery work being done, silk shops and wood carving all being sold by individuals, not the government. The people were friendly. Most spoke English and the US dollar was accepted everywhere! Our guide said this was a big change from the time right after the end of the war when the US was the enemy. There were pictures of Ho Chi Minh on billboards all around the city and signs showing the glory of the Communist Party but the people seemed unconcerned and went on about their business. The city was large but not trashy although there were certainly areas where the poverty was evident. Saigon was a place we both wanted to see because of the war and what that meant to us from the 60’s. Unfortunately, the Vietnamese wiped out everything they could that reminded them of the war so there wasn’t much history of the war to see. We did go to a national museum with artifacts and artwork depicting their ancient history and civilization. There we also saw a water puppet show with fiery dragons and other characters which was originally performed for their emperors long ago. This is the history Vietnam wants to preserve and showcase to the world. They are now welcoming us back to their country only as guests. They do not want us or any other foreign country back as liberators or conquerors. They’ve had enough of war to last them a long time.

Hue Vietnam

The next morning we arrived in the city of Da Nang. We had chosen to visit the Imperial city of Hue, about 80 miles north of Da Nang. Our bus ride would take about 2.5 hours because of the traffic and narrow road. We would also have to cross over Vietnam’s highest mountain pass, Hai Van (Cloudy) Pass. So with a great spirit of adventure we set off for the day! As we approached Da Nang we began to notice an increasing number of motorcycles. The bus had to dart in and out of the heavy motorcycle traffic. Our guide said in Vietnam people drive on any side of the road so there really were no traffic lanes. It was every man for himself and the motorcycles couldn’t have cared less about being near our big bus. There were also lots of trucks on the road but few cars. The trucks passed the bus which passed the motorcycles and vice versa the whole way, even over the winding mountain pass! It was quite a ride. Nevertheless, the scenery was spectacular and we stopped several times along the way for photos and potty breaks. At one point we passed 2 people riding on water buffalos along the side of the road. The bus stopped and we got out and took pictures. I came within inches of the friendly beast. Of course, once we stopped several others came up to the bus and we had people on water buffalos all around us – all wanting a dollar for a picture! We continued on to Hue past rice fields and small farming villages. Hue was definitely worth the trip. Hue was the Imperial City of the Nguyen Emperors during their reign from 1802 to 1945. We visited the 7 story Thien Mu Pagoda next to the Perfume River, and the tomb which looks like a royal palace of Emperor Tu Duc. We also stopped at the Forbidden City of the Emperor which was heavily damaged during the Tet Offensive in the Vietnam War. The Vietnamese are working hard to restore the historic buildings and no trace of the war can be found. Our guide was hesitant to talk about the war as well. It seems the Vietnamese want to forget and move on. Before we left we were treated to a meal of Vietnamese cuisine at the Century Riverside Hotel. The Vietnamese spring rolls are the best but the bean curd covered with some strange kind of chocolate was not so great. The local beer, Huda, was yummy!! We were warmly treated by the Vietnamese people wherever we went. We had another wild ride back to Da Nang but were sad to leave our guide Huy. He was a funny and intelligent young man who showed us his home town with grace and charm. The war left the country in shambles and even though there has been a lot done to renovate and reconstruct from the damage, it will be a long time before the country is truly healed. Although we had a fun day and saw a lot of amazing sights, it was also a day of reflection for us. The Vietnam War, which by the way, they call the American War, was a big part of our lives. It was hard to believe that we were in the Vietnam that we had heard so much about and to see the effects of the war on the country and the people.

Halong Bay Vietnam

After a pleasant day at sea we arrived in Halong Bay, Vietnam. Due to the tidal restrictions the ship had to anchor in the middle of the bay. Shortly after we dropped anchor, we were surrounded by fishing boats of all sizes and shapes. One particular boat was the famous Vietnamese junk. The junks were originally used as family homes for the people of the water villages. Although today we would take a ride on them for a tour of Halong Bay, you could see the family’s laundry hanging on a clothesline on the back deck. Halong Bay is a small port town in northern Vietnam but is known for its picturesque scenery. The bay area consists of small inlets and coves made from jagged rocks and peaks jutting up from the water. The area is a considered one of the most beautiful places in the world and is known for its natural beauty. The only way to truly experience the beauty of the Bay is by small boat and the junks were to be our means of transportation. It took awhile for the junks to be docked alongside our huge ship. The normal way to board a junk is by jumping on the flat bow. They do not come equipped with steps! Since for many of our passengers this would be impossible, we had to wait for a loading platform to be created that could handle all our less mobile shipmates. Once we were able to board the experience of Vietnam quickly began. The junk was a 2 story vessel with an indoor seating area and an upper outside deck. Inside the “crew” (the family that owned the junk) immediately came around with items to sell including pearls, handbags, scarves and tee shirts. The sales pitch lasted the entire 3+ hour trip, although they were never oppressive, just persistent. They did sell us the local beer called Tiger Beer, which we bought and enjoyed. Another lesson in the economics of Vietnam also occurred shortly after we took off. As we are sitting in the lower inside deck, small fishing boats come alongside our junk. Standing on top of the boats are children around 3 or 4 years old selling local fruit but really just asking for money from the rich tourists. On one boat a mother was holding an infant and asking for help to feed the child. One little girl knocked on the window of our junk and stuck her head inside, all the while standing atop her family’s moving boat. We of course all gave them some money, it would have been hard not to. This was our first glimpse into the poverty of Vietnam. We did continue our journey through the Bay and also stopped on one steep island to visit a cave. The scenery was indeed amazing but the hardships of the people who live in this country was what really made the most dramatic impression.

Hong Kong, PRC

We docked at the Ocean Terminal on the Kowloon peninsula side of the city. We were right next to the Star Ferry Terminal and immediately adjacent to Harbour City, which is a HUGE multi-story shopping complex. From our balcony we could see the massive skyscrapers across the bay on the Hong Kong Island side of the city. To get from one side of the city to the other, there is the famous Star Ferry which travels back and forth across the harbor all day and most of the night or an underground tunnel under the harbor. Our first tour was on Hong Kong Island side and we went via the tunnel. This tour covered the many foot markets and was to include a ride on the escalator that reaches from one end of the island almost to the other. It goes one way in the morning for the people commuting into downtown and then the other way for their return home. Since we got a late start, the escalator was going opposite to our destination so we walked instead. Hong Kong Island is very hilly but it was a fun walk and a close up view of the city. The markets were tucked in alleys or small narrow streets between the tall buildings. There were flower markets, bird markets, and antique markets. We saw the strangest food and fish, dead and alive. At one of the meat markets, there were all cuts of meat hanging, one had a bushy tail still attached (yuk) and pig heads. I liked the clothes and souvenir markets best – for obvious reasons. I asked about designer handbags at one stall that had lots of purses and in a whisper was given directions to another location. We decided to check this out so we made our way a few blocks away, up some stairs then an elevator to the second floor. There were no numbers or signs but one door had a buzzer so we tried that. A man opened the door and hurried us inside another room. Once inside he closed the door and then unlocked another door that opened to reveal shelves of knock-off handbags!! I was in paradise but didn’t find one that really caught my eye. It was a unique experience nevertheless. We did Hong Kong right. We took the cable car up to Victoria Peak, rode on the Star Ferry, took a trip around the fishing village of Aberdeen on a sampan and went to Repulse Bay where we rubbed a Happy Budha’s belly for good luck, walked across the Longevity Bridge and did a ritual with the God of Prosperity. We also walked all over the Kowloon side of the city up and down the main street called Nathan Road. The city is very crowded wherever you go but people were polite and courteous. At night we watched the light and laser show that the skyscrapers put on for the people of the city. The lights would flash in time with the music that was played over loudspeakers and green lasers would shoot out from the tops of some of the buildings. Very cool!!! We were here for almost 2 full days but we just scratched the surface in learning about the city. Hong Kong is definitely someplace I’d like to see again. A wonderful and amazing city!!!!

Manila

It was around 7AM and we were just waking up when the sound of drums and music started. We jumped out of bed and looked outside and there were dancers and bands and tents with all sorts of welcome signs. We had arrived in Manila and Manila was happy to see us! The Phillipines is home to the other large portion of our crew and once again many were eager to see their families. Since some of the guys had to work for part of the stay, their families were coming onboard to spend time with them on the ship. We were introduced to several family members and got our picture taken with Mark ( we call him fondly, the Omelet dude) and his Mom and Dad and brothers. There was an excited air on the ship partly a result of the family reunions but also because there was such a tremendous welcome reception immediately on shore. The music and dancing went on all day. There were souvenir stands and they had made tee shirts specifically for the date and our ship. (I bought one of course!) There was LOTS of security around the port and we were told not to venture too far on our own. In fact there were security guards with weapons pretty much everywhere we went in Manila. We were docked near the famous Manila Hotel and not far from the Old walled section of Manila. Once we left the port area we found a big city with all kinds of heavy traffic and everyone in a hurry. In addition to the many cars, there were Jeepneys, which are converted and elongated Jeeps with seating in the back . The Jeepneys are painted and decorated based on the creativity of the driver and operate like cheap taxis if you don’t mind being scrunched together and sitting bent over because the roof is very low. Not recommended for tall people! There were a few horse drawn carriages trying to maneuver in and out of the traffic but it was still everyone for himself regardless of the mode of transportation. The city looked a little beat up although there were areas where new construction and renovation were taking place. The highlight was a stop at the Phillipine American War Memorial. It was a somber reminder of the lives lost during WWII and the strategic importance of the Phillipines during the War. Made me think of my Dad, who was on his way to fight in the Phillipines when the war ended. No port visit is complete without shopping so we went to the Mall of Asia since the crew had recommended it so highly. There were security guards at every entrance and your bags were checked and you were scanned with a metal detector. Once inside it was like any other mall. We each had an ice cream cone at Hagen Das for around 450Pesos which is roughly $10.00US. (We’re really getting good at converting to the local currency!!) Back at the ship the party was still going on on the pier so we hung out and listened to the cool music and watched as the crew returned from their visit to their homeland. It was a sad time for them but I was ready to leave because our next port was Hong Kong!!

Brunei Darussalam (Brunei, the Abode of Peace)

The Kingdom of Brunei is a tiny country located on the huge island of Borneo. More than 75% of Brunei is still jungle so that should give you some idea about the size of Brunei. Although small in size it is rich because of oil. The supreme ruler is the His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu’izzaddin Waddaulah Ibni Al-Marhum. He has had 3 wives and now has 12 children, the youngest only a month old. He ascended the throne in 1967 at the age of 21. The ship docked in the tiny port city of Muara, but the biggest city and capital is called Bandar Seri Begawan, which is a 45 minute ride from the port. The Royal Family owns everything of any importance or worth. There are many palaces and mosques all decorated with 18 carat gold, mosaic tiles, granite and gems. People not of royal birth have it a little different, although the Sultan provides for their medical care and there are no taxes. Also, gas is really cheap! We saw modest houses and some downright slums along the waterfront called the Water Village. This village, Kampong Ayer, is a city on stilts on the water and is the world’s largest raised town of its kind. It has stores, schools and banks to support the 30,000 people who make the Water Village their permanent home. It looked like a damp way to live but the Water Village has been a part of Brunei for a long time. We had the opportunity to visit their main shopping mall, Kuala Belait in the center of downtown Bandar Seri Begawan. It was an interesting mix of cultures. There was a long line at a place called Fun Donuts, think Dunkin Donuts, where the local people waited patiently for a doughy treat! The mall smelled of donuts and curry from all the Asian/Indian restaurants. It wasn’t unpleasant, just different. Outside we saw street vendors with some of the strangest food I have ever seen. Lots of fish-like things and funny looking eggs. Not sure what they were really and didn’t want to try them. People were nice and most could speak English and they all seemed to highly regard the Sultan. We saw his new palace, his old palace, his polo grounds, the stables of his 300+ polo ponies, the palaces of his relatives and a Disneyland-like park called Jeydoung Park, which he had built. Brunei was clearly all about the Sultan and the family dynasty which began with Sultan Mohammed in 1405AD. I hadn’t heard of it before we left on this cruise, but now I will surely never forget it!

Beautiful Bali

There was great excitement on the ship the morning we arrived in Bali, Indonesia. Many of the dining room crew were eager to be home – even for a brief stop – and see their families. This would be the first time several of the guys had seen their family in over a year. The waters around Pandangbai – the port area, are shallow and subject to extreme fluctuations with the tides, sometimes making it impossible to navigate. We had to anchor a good distance away from the port and then tender in. Because of the shallow depths, the tenders could not be filled to capacity so it was slow getting to shore. I felt especially sorry for the crew, who had to wait until all the passengers were ashore before they could leave to meet their families. When were arrived at the dock we were warmly greeted. Bali was as eager for our visit as we were to be there. There were banners and a beautifully decorated walkway with brightly dressed female dancers in traditional attire and a Balinese band making strange yet melodic rhythms. Prior to our arrival in Bali, the Indonesian crew had been coaching us in how to speak a few phrases in Bahasa, the Indonesian language. The most important phrase we learned was “tidak terima kashi” or No thank you! This phrase was extremely useful for once we left the pier area we were besieged by aggressive street vendors hawking cloths, puppets and wood carvings. After we made our way to the tour bus we were whisked away from the chaos at the pier to the amazing and beautiful countryside of Bali. The main religion on the island is Hinduism and everywhere there were little shrines with offerings of fruit and flowers to the Gods. Wherever you looked there were statues of the Gods in all shapes and sizes wrapped with colorful scarves around their bodies. One of our stops was an outside theater which looked like a huge shrine. There were statues of Gods on both sides of a large set of concrete steps. At the top of the many steps were 2 huge golden doors. There was an orchestra called a gamelan which consisted of a variety of strange percussion instruments in a covered pavilion to the side of this structure. When the 2 golden doors opened the Barong dance began as the performers would enter and leave through the doors. It was quite a spectacle with elaborate costumes, dance and music. The Barong Dance tells the story of the good god Barong’s fight with the evil witch Rangla. Good always triumphs over evil so of course, Barong won and everyone lived happily ever after in Bali. Later we visited the wood carvers in the city of Ubud and the artist colony in Mas. During our tour we saw temples of all sizes, terraced rice fields and lots and lots of motorcycles, the main form of transportation on the island’s narrow and winding roads. The flowers and vegetation are lush and exotic. The air smells of frangipani. Bali is truly an island paradise!

Update and FYI

I neglected to include in my Perth description an item of interest to our daughters. While in Perth we visited a beautiful beach on the Indian Ocean called Cotteloe Beach. This was the site of Heath Ledger’s wake and where his ashes were scattered in the ocean. According to our guide, he loved to come here when he lived in Perth. We took lots of pictures. It was a gorgeous beach so I can understand why he liked it so much.
Now for the update – we’re on day 3 of the 3 sea days it takes to get from Perth, Australia to Bali, Indonesia. Shortly after we left Perth, we were informed that a cyclone named Nicholas was now directly in our path. The Captain advised that he was monitoring its position and would take preventive measures as needed. Yesterday the Captain announced that the storm was still headed for us so we would have to alter our course. Instead of sailing due north, we would have to head west north west to avoid the worst part of the storm. We were told to expect rough seas around 3PM that day for that was the time we would be closest to the storm, but still 200 nautical miles from its eye. We did have some rough seas but nothing like we’d experienced on the Tasman Sea and after a few hours the waters calmed. So just in case you were watching the Weather Channel and were concerned – we are safe! The seas are moderate today. It’s about 80 degrees and sunny and we are looking forward to seeing the Indonesian crew reunited with their families tomorrow.
Another point of interest we learned today is that the ship has now installed large round disks on the outside decks called L.R.A.D, long range acoustic devices. There are now security guards manning these devices 24/7. The water hoses have been removed from their containers and are spread out on the deck also. We were told these are security measures to deter pirates or other bad guys from trying to board the ship. The veteran world cruisers say this is standard operating procedure for this part of the world. For us, it represents an interesting and sad commentary on the state of world affairs. Do not be alarmed. The ship is merely doing what it is supposed to do to look out for our safety at all times.

Australia - 3 Ports of Call

We began our entrance into Sydney Harbour at about 6AM, on Feb. 9. It was a cloudy and rainy morning so we went to the uppermost indoor deck to observe. Sydney Harbour is protected by 2 land masses called the North and South Heads. Since the harbor is long and winding some of the early explorers like Capt. James Cook, passed it up thinking it was not suitable. Boy, was he wrong! After what seemed like an hour we had our first glimpse of the iconic symbol of Sydney – the Opera House. I got goose bumps seeing it for the first time. Then came the famous Harbour Bridge. It was hard to believe we were actually seeing this in person. The ship docked at the Overseas Passenger Terminal which happens to be a short walk from the Opera House. So far the next 2 days we were in Sydney, the Opera House was right next door! Later we took a rainy, damp tour of the city. We toured the Opera House and sat in the concert hall to hear the fabulous acoustics and the auditorium to observe a set being assembled for an upcoming play. The architecture was stunning and we learned the history of how and why the structure was built. Another place we visited was the famous Bondi Beach. Even in a slight drizzle there were many surfers riding the waves on this gorgeous beach. Later in the day we walked and shopped in downtown Sydney and ended up in a trendy section near the dock called “The Rocks”. We were tired and thirsty and had our first taste of James Squire ale. I had 2 “middies” or medium (small) size glasses. Next day the sun was shining and we took a cruise of Sydney Harbour on one of the small ferry boats that operate regularly all around Sydney. They took us to all the coves and bays up and down the full length of the harbor. At one cove we passed a nude beach complete with naked sunbathers proudly waving at us as we sailed by. Tea was served during the trip which was very civilized we thought! When we got back, the dock was full of street musicians and artists and food stands so we hung out as long as we could with the locals. We were sorry to have to return to the ship. (Before we did though, we went back for another glass of that ale!!!)
The ship left Sydney Harbour around 8PM and we watched from the aft outside deck as the Opera House and Harbour Bridge disappeared. It was a clear night and as we left we saw the Southern Cross officially for the first time. (Southern Cross is the famous constellation only visible in the Southern Hemisphere. We think we saw it in New Zealand but we didn’t have anyone around us at the time who could verify that it was indeed the Southern Cross.)
After a day at sea we docked in Melbourne. The port was a long way from the city so we hopped on the local tram (#109) and made our way into town. Melbourne reminded me a lot of Sydney, very cosmopolitan, hip and clean but without the beautiful harbor. The trams were the chief means of transportation in and around the city. They were great – no graffiti, people were courteous, modern, clean and safe – very refreshing!!! We went to the Botanical Gardens (think city park) and saw the Australian magpie for the first time. This is a large black and white bird and it makes a sweet chirping sound. They were all around and I enjoyed them more than the gardens.
Australia is a vast land. Our next port of call was Perth on the western side of the country. It took us 3 sea days at 20 knots to get there from Melbourne. During this trek, we sailed through Bass Straight, known for its rough seas, then westward in the Southern Ocean, which separates Australia from Antarctica and finally north in the Indian Ocean. The W.A. was worth the wait!! (The locals use the initials, W.A. when speaking of Western Australia.) We docked in the Port of Fremantle which is about 20 miles from Perth. Fremantle is a quaint port town and we had time to walk around, call the kids and shop before heading to Perth. Lovely, lovely Perth on the Indian Ocean and the Swan River. Beautiful beyond description. We visited their city park called King’s Gardens. Here we walked some of the many trails through the grounds and saw exotic plants, trees and wildlife. There was the smell of Eucalyptus in the air from the many varieties of Eucalyptus trees and a symphony of birds chirping and singing. We saw black cockatoos flying from tree to tree, wild parakeets, ravens and more Australian magpies. To top it off, on a nearby lake, we saw hundreds of graceful black swans. Perth is a city of 1.5 million people. It’s the only city of any size in the whole W.A. but what a city it is! We both agreed we had to come back. Perth was my favorite of our 3 stops in Australia but Australia in general is a place no one should miss. It is so far away but so worth the trip!!!

A Wild Day at Sea!

As we entered the Tasman Sea around 8PM the water was as smooth as glass. At about 4AM the next morning I was awakened by some sharp movements of the ship. These were stronger than any pitches or rolls I’d felt before but it didn’t seem too bad. As the morning progressed things got worse. We went up to breakfast to find that most of the water had sloshed out of the main Lido pool and the crew was draining what was left. The ship was rocking and rolling and the sky was overcast. There were dark rain clouds on the horizon. We saw lots of whitecaps and the swells seemed to get bigger and bigger. Around noon it started to rain and the wind really started howling. We couldn’t open the door to our verandah because the pressure was so strong. The captain made his 1PM announcement and said we were in Force 10 winds on the Balfour scale and the seas were rough. (No lie) He also said not to go on any outside deck. By this time the waves were crashing up to our verandah on Deck 6. Deck 3, the Promenade Deck was constantly drenched with wave after wave of angry sea. One of the glass doors that opens onto Deck 3 was cracked when the force of the wind pulled it away from some curious (but not smart) passenger. Few people were out of their cabins and we noticed barf bags were now deployed at many locations throughout the ship. The ship creaked and bumped and shuttered and there was no place you couldn’t hear it or feel it. We tried to keep our minds off the situation as best we could but it was impossible not to be a little concerned. Neither of us ever got seasick, although many people did. I remember walking up the steps at one point when the ship was cresting a huge swell. As I took a step up I felt weightless for a second as I was sort of suspended in mid-air waiting for the ship to come back down. Pretty amazing! We decided to keep things as close to normal as possible so we got all dressed up for dinner since it was supposed to be a formal night. Now I know how important the rails in the shower are, as I held on for dear life while trying to wash my hair. This was around 6PM and it seemed that the ship was the worst we’d felt it. Apparently, during this time the early diners were really tossed about and the waiters dropped several dishes and broke many glasses trying to serve dinner. When we got to dinner at 8PM things were still rocking and rolling but it seemed slightly less. There were only a few of us who had made it to the dining room. The waiters were a little freaked out by all this also and we held onto our wine glasses the whole time to avoid any spills. It was a strange evening in the dining room. We saw the Navigator who said we had passed through the eye of the gale and were on the way out of the storm. That was the best news we had heard all day!! We went to bed that night but neither of us slept. It was still pretty scary. It seems around 3AM that the wind stopped sounding so loud and we were back to the more normal movements of the ship. By 6AM it was calm seas and clearer skies. We were exhausted but thankful it was over. We hugged each other and said “We survived!”

Christchurch, Dunnedin and Fiordland

We docked in the port town of Lyttleton, which is a short distance from the city of Christchurch. There are mountains separating the port city of Lyttleton from the flat valley where Christchurch is located. There are 2 ways to get to Christchurch. The old way is over the mountain on winding roads or paths. The new way is through a tunnel through the mountain. We were able to experience both ways to get to Christchurch. We took the mountain pass called Dyers Pass. It wound around and around the mountain on narrow 2 lane roads with steep inclines. I should say it was a dreary cloudy day with lots of drizzle so this added to the “excitement” of going over the pass. Along the way we saw many sheep grazing sideways up and down the mountain. The ride was beautiful but I was glad to make it to the other side. The second way to Christchurch is the tunnel. The tunnel is about 2 miles long and takes you right through the mountain. Very fast but not as picturesque. Christchurch was as you might expect full of quaint old churches. In the city center we found the old Cathedral. For $5 NZ, you could climb the steps in the steeple. Since it was cold and rainy we passed and instead had a hot chocolate at the Starbuck’s across the street from the church! (Yes, a Starbucks, not to mention a McDonalds, Subway and Burger King not too far away.) The city center was really very cosmopolitan for a small town on the South Island however. There were many little trendy shops and small cafes and a wonderful little Trolley that ran through the city to all the major tourist stops. While in Christchurch we visited a historic Victorian house now preserved and maintained by the city called Mona Vale. There we were treated to an English tea. We had scones and cucumber sandwiches. I learned the proper way to eat the scones is that you first spread some butter on a piece, then jam and on top you put clotted cream! Wow – a new taste sensation but definitely not approved by Jenny Craig! After tea we walked through the Botanical Gardens and along the Avon River which is a lovely small stream through the city. There are punts, which are long flat boats that are propelled by a man with a long stick, that you can take for a ride on the Avon. All very British indeed! Again we were entranced with another different but wonderful city in New Zealand.
The next morning the sun was shining and we were in Dunnedin, actually docked in Port Chalmers which is a short drive away. We had a tour of the city and our guide Stuart told us that the day was like a “box of fluffies”. This apparently means it’s all good or something like that. We also learned that the New Zealanders call children “wee dots”. These were 2 of Stuart’s favorite phrases. Our first stop was Baldwin Street, which is supposed to be the world’s steepest city street. The Cadbury Chocolate Company is located in Dunnedin and every year the company sponsors a charity event where they roll 20,000 “lollies” (lollipops) down the street and people buy chances to catch the lollies as they roll because one contains a valuable prize. After a drive through the city and a stop near the Cadbury Chocolate plant we are taken to Olverton House. This was one of the original family homes in Dunnedin and is remarkably maintained. It has all the original furniture and decoration exactly as the family left it. It was an interesting tour and an informative lesson in the history of this quaint and lovely city. After the tour we had time to shop and knock around on our own. We happened upon the Seafarer’s Club in Port Chalmers, a short walk from the ship. It’s a place the town of Port Chalmers has set up for sea travelers to come and relax and it offered FREE internet (!! )and cheap phone cards. There was also a black and white cat sleeping on the couch in the lounge area which made it a very special place for sure. We visited with the nice lady who oversees the club and she gave us a free phone card as well. A lot of the crew of the Amsterdam had found this spot also. Ever since arriving in New Zealand, all our guides told us to try “hokey pokey ice cream”. I was able to sample this delight in Port Chalmers and while very tasty, not any better than good old Ben and Jerry’s Cherry Garcia. Dunnedin was a relaxing and fun stop.
After Dunnedin, we set off to view the area called Fiordland on the western side of the South Island. The ship arrived at Dusky Sound around 8am the next day after we left Dunnedin. We then slowly proceeded to cruise in and out of the sound while everyone admired the scenery and looked for wildlife. After Dusky Sound we cruised up the coast and then entered Doubtful Sound. We saw high peaks and beautiful waterfalls along the way, each one more splendid than the previous one. Finally by late afternoon we entered Milford Sound, the highlight and most famous of the Fiordland wilderness. As we sailed in the water was smooth and the sun was shining. We cruised to the end of the sound and then the ship slowly turned around. As we turned the captain announced that we were now going to begin heading out to the Tasman Sea to begin our journey to Australia.

New Zealand - Auckland and Wellington

We woke up and realized we had docked in Auckland. I looked out our window and at first thought we were docked next to another cruise ship. Upon further inspection I realized it was actually a hotel, Hilton Inn, painted white and made to look like a cruise ship with balconies. The lower windows were round resembling large portholes. The dock was a flurry of activity with forklifts already moving palettes of supplies unto the ship. After several weeks in the South Pacific islands, the ship was running low on provisions. (God forbid we wouldn’t have enough food or drink for everyone!!! )
Still on the ship, we could see some of the tall buildings of the city skyline and the impressive Sky Tower, the Southern Hemisphere’s tallest tower. I couldn’t wait to get ashore to see the sights. We had a short tour of the area with a trip to the top of the dormant volcanic crater called Mt Pukekawa, the Harbour Bridge and the Auckland War Memorial Museum. Auckland is nicknamed the “City of Sails” and with good reason. The harbors are filled with all kinds of sailboats and yachts. Auckland is the home of the America’s Cup team for New Zealand and there is a whole new area along the waterfront called America’s Cup Village. After our tour we took off on a walk around the central city area. It was so very nice to see this modern, clean and very sea-loving city up close. The people were extremely friendly, the Kiwis they call themselves, and we were treated well wherever we went. The population seemed relatively young with a mix of Maori, Asian and Indonesian people as well as the native Kiwis. We ate lunch at a trendy harbor side restaurant and had one of the local beers called Monteith’s Golden ale and it was great! We found some interesting shops, along with a few American standbys like McDonalds and Burger King and bought a few souvenirs. We also found a drug store and stocked up on a few necessities that we couldn’t find while in French Polynesia. All in all we loved Auckland and were sorry we didn’t have more time to explore. We got back on board shortly before sail away and spent a long time out on the outside decks as we left the dock and sailed out of Waitemata Harbour. The ship had to sound its horn many times as we left because the harbor was full of all sizes of sailboats not too concerned about our large vessel getting too close to them. We were told the Kiwis were fearless and they proved it! The first taste of New Zealand left me wanting more. After a sea day we’ll visit Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin and then spend some time cruising Milford Sound before heading for Sydney, Australia.

We arrived in Wellington on a beautiful, sunny day. There was a slight chill in the air but it was really quite comfortable. Today we were scheduled for our “special kiwi event”. This event was provided to guests who had booked a verandah cabin and above and was totally complimentary. We knew where and when to pick up the bus and that we were to dress “elegant casual”. We weren’t quite sure how elegant we looked but off we went anyway. We begin our event with a bus tour around the city. We saw the Parliament building, downtown shopping area and were taken to the top of Mt. Victoria for panoramic views of the city and harbor. The scenery was breathtaking! After several photo stops, we headed back into town for lunch. We were taken to the newly restored City Hall Building for a 4 course luncheon in the main auditorium/theater. This historic building was in pristine condition and beautifully decorated with chandeliers and banners. There was a large stage in the front of the room and behind the stage a magnificent huge pipe organ. Needless to say, we were impressed. We were escorted to finely decorated tables and offered our choice of water, wine or beer. I chose another local beer recommended by our server, called Spreict’s. The brewery is in Dunnedin, NZ, which we would visit the next day. At this point the lights were dimmed and in walk several large Maori warriors blowing a welcome signal on huge shells. The show has begun! Several more Maori men and women appeared on the stage and we were treated to various dances and chants. We then were welcomed by the Mayor of Wellington, a lovely woman dressed in a flowing robe depicting her status. After the first 3 courses were served, we see coming from under the stage, 2 men dressed as New Zealand sheep farmers and a huge sheep! A real live sheep!! This begins the second part of our entertainment during which we see a demonstration of sheep shearing on another live sheep. We saw sheep dogs herding live geese, a cow being milked and several baby lambs being fed. All on the stage in the beautiful City Hall building – it was amazing and really quite fun. There were lots of laughs and audience participation. After dessert was served, we left but not without a gift from the cruise line. We each received a beautiful Merino wool scarf! We left with a wonderful feeling about Wellington and both agreed we had to come back! I cried as the ship left the harbor when we saw and heard a girl’s bagpipe ensemble playing “Amazing Grace” on the dock below us. There really is something wonderful about New Zealand!!!!

Crossing the Dateline

On Saturday, Jan 26, we docked in Apia, Samoa. It was a rainy cloudy day. We had a tour of the island scheduled and disembarked prepared for a wet trip. We boarded our “bus” which was another of those converted truck beds with wooden seats. The “windows” were plastic sheets that you had to take in or out to open or close the window. It was very hot and humid with the windows closed so we decided we’d rather get wet and we opened our window, much to the dismay of our fellow tour members. Before we left for our tour, we were presented with floral leis which were beautiful but because they’d gotten wet, it was damp and chilly hanging around our necks! Off we went in the pouring rain, first stop the town market. Lots of our fellow tour members preferred to stay in the relative dryness of the bus, but we got out in the rain and sloshed our way to the market. The market was damp and wet inside but at least covered. There were stalls of fruits, vegetables and strange things I couldn’t recognize. There was also loose tobacco for sale and we kept being assured that it was pure????, which made us wonder what they were really selling but we passed on the tobacco anyway. After buying some earrings made from coconut shells we hurried back to the bus. Since it was raining we were driven around but didn’t get out to see government buildings and tombs of past leaders. We were eventually taken to the island home of Robert Louis Stevenson which is now a museum. Stevenson lived on Samoa for 5 years before he died and is buried on the mountain behind his home. Stevenson is highly regarded by the Samoan people. We toured his museum home and the Samoans put on a show of traditional dancing for us. We found the Samoan people to be very friendly and kind and left their island with fond memories and warm feelings even though we were cold and wet for most of the visit.
That night we crossed the International Dateline and lost forever the day, January 27, 2008. For us, after Saturday, it was Monday, Jan. 28!!! Since Monday was a sea day, we had time to get our heads around that concept and accept that Sunday was gone!!
On Tuesday, Jan 29 we arrived in Nuku Alofa, Tonga. This was our last Polynesian island and then it’s off to New Zealand!! Tonga was similar in many ways to Samoa. There were lovely people, souvenir stalls, a local market and not much else. We had a tour of the island. This time we were in a real van but it had been fully depreciated – torn seats, bumps in the floor and graffiti on the interior walls. Our tour guide was a beautiful young woman named Ohpa. She took us to see the cliffs and natural archway at one of the gorgeous beaches. We saw the Samoan blow holes (impressive) and a tree full of bats!! Bats are the only indigenous mammal on the island and they are plentiful and large!! It was pretty eerie to see so many bats just hanging upside down in the trees. (They were noisy too) After a stop to see the Royal Palace of the King of Tonga, it was back to the ship.
Now we are on day 2 of 2 sea days before Auckland, New Zealand. The weather has gotten a little cooler and the seas are rough but we’re seasoned sailors and are doing fine. We can’t believe we’ve been on this ship for almost a month! The time seems to be flying by.

French Polynesia

On Jan. 19 we awoke to the sight of land after 8 days of deep blue ocean and flying fish. When we opened our curtains, there were beautiful tropical islands on either side of the ship. We were headed into Taiohae Baie on the island of Nuku Hiva. Taiohae is the main city at the port. The port consisted of a small landing with natural stone steps. The ship anchored in the Baie (bay) and we were tendered into the tiny port. We were welcomed by the friendly people of this lush paradise in French Polynesia. The principle language is French and the currency the Polynesian French franc. We converted some US dollars to the franc and found out that it didn’t take long to spend all our francs!!! (More on that later.) We set out to explore the island and search for the Herman Melville monument since he lived in Nuku Hiva for several months. His writings were greatly inspired by the people and the island. We were pointed in the direction of the monument which was 2 or so miles ahead around the bay. As we walked we stopped at the local markets and looked at the Tikis and shells for sale. The vegetation was exotic and the flowers were blooming everywhere along our way. The island had a sweet and very fragrant smell. It was warm, around 80 degrees and the sun was very bright. As we made our way we happened upon a tiny museum run by an American woman named Rose who has lived on the island since the early 1970s. She welcomed us in to her air conditioned home/museum which we greatly appreciated after walking in the hot sun for 2 miles. She gave us a wonderful background of information about the island and showed us her artifacts and artwork she had collected over the years. It was here that I purchased my own personal Tiki who now sits in our cabin watching over us. Rose also told us where to find the Herman Melville monument. We left Rose and made our way up the hill to a beautiful local hotel where we sampled our first taste of Polynesian beer called Hinano. It was great to sit on the patio overlooking the beautiful bay and enjoy the refreshing brew. We found out how expensive things are in French Polynesia as our beers were over $7.00US each. We had about $20 in Polynesian Francs so after we paid for the beer we were broke! We finished our beers and headed back to the ship. We were hot and tired but very happy to have visited the beautiful island of Nuku Hiva.
After another relaxing day at sea we docked in Papeete, Tahiti. The first impression was not favorable. Papeete is large bustling city. Lots of traffic and very fast-paced. We walked around the downtown area and visited the local Market. This is a multi-story open air building with stall after stall of vendors selling Tahitian products such as pareos (the beautiful cloth used for draping for dresses, skirts, etc.), tiki, shell jewelry and black pearls. The hottest commodity in French Polynesia is the black pearl. There are many sizes and colors and grades and the prices vary, but all are expensive. Again we found that the prices are high for just about everything. We walked around for a couple hours and saw what we could by foot. The people were friendly and most could speak some English although the language most spoken was French. Since we weren’t scheduled on a tour with the ship we decided to hire a local taxi to see more of the island. We struck up a deal with Maria, a taxi driver who took us and 2 other couples in her van. Once we left the city the sights became more like what you would expect! Maria took us high on the mountain overlooking the city for views of the bay and the coastline. Then we went on a winding 2 lane road around the east side of the island along the rugged coast. We saw black sand beaches and stopped at one location to see a “blow hole”. This is an opening in the rocks where the waves crash through and produce a gust of mist at a high rate of speed. It makes a loud whooshing sound and sprays you with water if you get too close! Next we went inland through lush tropical vegetation to a place where there was a waterfall. We had to walk further into the forest along a rocky path to eventually find the magnificent waterfall towering hundreds of feet down a mountainside. Breathtaking!! After a few more photo ops Maria took us back to the ship and we were so glad to have seen the beauty of Papeete. We had a much better appreciation for the island. Later in the evening, we went back ashore to sample the local flavors of Papeete. Every evening the parking lot near the dock fills with small trucks that convert to small restaurants. They set up tables and the local people gather for all sorts of delicious food. There is Tahitian music playing and everyone sits around and enjoys the food and the ambience. I tried a coconut ice cream that was out of this world! Back on board the ship, we were treated to a show of traditional Tahitian dancing. The dancers were in full costume with hula skirts and pareos, flowers and shells. A nice way to end the day.
Next morning we awoke to the tropical paradise of Moorea. Moorea is only 17 miles from Papeete. It is a smaller and more exotic island than Tahiti. We had to tender to shore and found ourselves on a sandy beach with a few local vendors and not much else. We had a tour of the island and saw pineapple plantations, the mountain called Bali Hi in the movie “South Pacific” and much more. It was an exhausting tour around the island (there is only one road) but one we were glad we took. Moorea is much more beautiful than Tahiti. We had a wonderful lunch at a small outside café consisting of a French baguette and Hinano beer!
The approach to the island of Bora Bora was gorgeous. Bora Bora has one main island and many smaller bodies of land called “motus”. You can only get to the motus by boat. Most of the expensive hotels are built out on the motus and have cabanas on stilts over the ocean where you can stay for $400+ a night. We were tendered to the main island which after Moorea seemed dirty and over populated, yet much smaller than Papeete. We took another island tour in a converted truck with bucket seats. The truck was decorated with live local flowers which we fed to the land crabs at one of the stops. It was hot and the road was bumpy. We saw a lot of the island and ended our tour at the supposed bar that invented the Bloody Mary called “Bloody Mary’s”. We had the famous Bloody Mary drink there which was good but very over-priced! We left the island thinking that unless you stayed at one of the resort hotels on the motus, Bora Bora was not as pretty as we had expected.

Report from the South Pacific

We’re on day 6 of 8 days at sea. We’ve moved our clocks back first to Mountain time and then to Pacific time the night before last. This means we are moving west through the longitudes. The seas are relatively calm but the skies have been overcast and surprisingly cool for being this close to the equator. We’ve been spending our time reading and taking part in the various activities onboard. I’ve started taking Tai Chi classes, which I like very much and now attend regularly. We listened to a talk about astronomy by one of the several guest speakers and also a program about Hollywood legends, the first of the series was Elizabeth Taylor. I discovered that napping is also nice. This is something Jim has had no problem with for some time so he has not missed an opportunity to continue his nap routine.
On Jan 13, we had the first “Ball”. It was called the “Black and White Ball” and as you might expect everyone wore black and white and all the decorations were in keeping with the theme. The captain and his wife opened the ball with the first dance and then all the officers joined in with their partners. It was very nautical and in keeping with the grand traditions of cruising.
Another tradition of sea travel is the ceremony for the crossing of the equator. On Jan. 14, we crossed the equator at 10:38am. To ensure our safe passage we had to attend a ceremony to honor King Poseidon, Chief of all the Water Deities. King Poseidon created the horse and upon these powerful animals he drew his chariot over the sea, which became smooth for him. This is why we must honor King Poseidon and in return we will have safe passage and smooth seas. At the ceremony King Poseidon appeared with his mermaid wife and his court. He decreed that in order to honor him any person crossing the equator for the first time, in sea terms called a pollywog, must show respect by kissing a fish!! Yes, there was a huge real (dead) sea bass nestled on a large block of ice ready for all the pollywogs to show their respect. One by one we each took our turn kissing the fish! We have pictures to prove that we did and a certificate that proclaims we are Honorary Members of the Ancient Order of the Shellbacks and we are now free to roam the oceans and seas. As you can imagine, we are very proud of our accomplishment. That evening we were given a special dinner called Neptunus Rex and King Poseidon and his court were in attendance as well. (There was no sea bass on the menu so we’re not sure what happened to the fish) It was a pretty remarkable day.
Now with only 2 more full days at sea, we are getting excited to visit our first stop in the South Pacific, Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas. We have attended port lectures to learn more of the history and island culture. Then it will be off to Tahiti. Can’t wait!!!

Notes from the Pacific Ocean

It’s Friday, January 11, 2008 and we are on a southwesterly course having left Panama City yesterday around 5PM. The seas are calm and the sky is clear. There is no other ship in sight and no sign of any land. We are in the Pacific Ocean on the first day of our eight sea days on our way to Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas.
Hard to believe that 3 days ago we were in Puerto Limon, Costa Rica. There we toured a working Del- Monte banana plantation and spent some time wondering around Puerto Limon souvenir shopping . After leaving Costa Rica, we began our journey through the Panama Canal. We woke up early the next morning, Jan. 9, to watch our progress through the canal. We were at the first set of locks called Gatun Locks around 6AM. There were 2 other cruise ships making the transit at the same time but our ship was first! We were allowed on the bow of the ship and also near the bridge to watch. The cruise staff had fresh coffee and something called “Panama Rolls” for us to snack on while we watched all the activity of the canal transit. We finished the first set of locks around 10Am and then sailed through Gatun Lake to the next set of locks called Pedro Miguel. Prior to arriving at the Pedro Miguel locks we went through the Calebra Cut and the small canal town of Gamboa. There were a couple crocodiles swimming near the shore who were disturbed by our ship and lots of exotic birds. We also saw the signs of construction for the new Panama Canal locks being built at several points along the way. The country of Panama has embarked on a project to widen the locks to allow larger ships to transit the canal since at the time the canal was built in the early nineteen hundreds, ships were not as wide as they are now. Our ship fit with only a few feet to spare on either side! We cleared the Pedro Miguel locks around 2PM and then it was a short distance to the final set of locks called the Miraflores Locks. We completed the full transit from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean at around 5PM. In the distance we saw Panama City with it’s skyscrapers and the Bridge of the Americas. That evening we anchored off Fuerte Amador and the ship had a barbeque on the Lido deck to celebrate our successful transit of the Canal! Yesterday, Jan. 10 we had the day to explore Panama City and we took the opportunity to see all the sights. After a long day of touring Panama City we stopped at a local restaurant for a rest and sampled the local beer. We were not in a hurry to return to the ship because we knew once there it would be a long time before we would be back on land.
So for the next eight days, it will be lots of sunning and reading and enjoying the endless activities provided on our beautiful ship, the ms Amsterdam.

The voyage has begun.....

It's Sunday January 6, 2008 and we're anchored in Grand Cayman. The temp is 78 F, the sun is shining and the ocean is turquoise blue. We are well and happy and getting acclimated to life at sea. The pace of the ship is leisurely as we all know that this is only the beginning of an amazing voyage.
We embarked from Ft Lauderdale around 8PM Jan 4. The ship was delayed due to the extra baggage deliveries. It seems our 11 bags were minimal compared to the 20 or more we've heard other people brought! The embarkation was exciting and exhausting. We were greeted at the cruise pier with balloons, string quartets and champagne once we boarded the ship. We were escorted to our cabin and were pleasantly surprised by it's size and features, although we were still worried about where we were going to store all our "stuff". As the bags started arriving we quickly realized we had to get busy putting things away or we'd be overrun with the luggage. No more partying for awhile! By the time dinner was served we had managed to unpack all 11 of our bags with no problem. We were exhausted but relieved because everything fit!
Once the ship left the pier we experienced moderate seas for most of the way to Grand Cayman - our first stop after a day at sea. There are lots of seasoned cruisers onboard so no one was too concerned about the rocking and rolling of the ship. Cayman is peaceful this time of year so it was a relaxing day walking around the town.
Tomorrow is another sea day and then on to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica. I'm falling asleep in my deck chair as I write this so I'll quit for now. Our best to you all!!