Funchal, Madeira

The sail out of Gibraltar was inspiring. The passage through the Straits of Gibraltar once again gave us a sense of the strategic importance of this area and why it must always be open to all who choose to travel through in peace and harmony. Then we were in the Atlantic and the fact that we were on our way home really sunk in. This has been an amazing journey, one we will never forget, but we are really ready to see our family and be home. The last stop before we begin our voyage westward was Funchal, Madeira. Madeira is a Portuguese archipelago off the west coast of Africa. It is composed of 5 islands, the largest and most populated is also called Madeira. Funchal, the capital city of Madeira, is a sleepy resort town with a European attitude and a Portuguese history. The island is lush with beautiful and colorful exotic flowers growing everywhere. The town is clean and well maintained and the people very friendly. We took a lovely cable car up to the highest point to an area called Monte. The views were impressive but sadly, no monkeys!! In the old days, the inhabitants got off the peak by sliding down the steep and winding streets on toboggans. These are large wicker basket-like things on runners. There is a seat that holds two people inside and as you slide down the streets, two men ride along and use their feet or turn the basket sideways to keep you from careening down too fast. Today, this “ride” is a tourist attraction and of course we did it!! The clever Madeirans now even have someone along the route who takes you photo and then what do you know – a printed glossy souvenir photo is available for purchase at the end of the ride!! Of course, the men guiding your basket tip their straw hats and expect you to put a donation inside also! Regardless, the experience was fun and not to be missed. Another stop in Madeira is to sample the Madeira wine. We did that also but did not find the taste at all to our liking so no souvenir wine items were purchased at this stop. We spent the rest of the day walking around the town since we didn’t want to get back to the ship until right before we sailed. Madeira was the last stop before 5 sea days so once we boarded that was it for land for awhile until Bermuda. In Funchal, we found an open air flower market and a fish market used by the locals. We ate at an outdoor café and of course had the local brew. (I sampled the local ice cream also which didn’t mix well with the beer!) It was a pleasant way to spend the afternoon. Once back on board we watched as the ship sailed out of the port of Madeira. Now we were headed directly west on a rhumb line to Bermuda. A rhumb line is a nautical term for a straight line route from one point to another which crosses the longitudes at the same angle. As I write this we are now about halfway across the line, so you should be able to locate us on a map if you’re so inclined.

Gibraltar

As we docked in Gibraltar we pulled alongside a large cliff. We looked out our window and wondered if this was THE Rock of Gibraltar. It was! Gibraltar is a tiny country on the southern tip of Spain. There is an airport runway separating the two countries. There is a road that crosses the runway that takes you to Spain but you better be careful to heed the stoplights or you will not make it there in one piece. Gibraltar is built on the hillsides up the cliffs. The roads are narrow and winding. No large vehicles here – lots of tiny strange looking cars and mopeds. If you want to get to the top of the Rock the best way is the cable car. So on a cool but clear morning we boarded the cable car and made it to the top! Even though we rode the cable car up, there were still a lot of steps to finally get to the viewing area. Of course there was a restaurant and souvenir shop called the Top of the Rock up there as well. The first things we saw as we climbed up to the top were the famous Barbary apes! The apes live on the rock and are protected by the government. We had been warned to avoid carrying food or wearing anything loose or dangly that might attract their curiosity. Also there were signs posted saying not to feed them or face a stiff fine. These tailless apes were not afraid of all the people and really checked us out. They went wherever they wanted to and looked at us like “this is my turf so get away”! Several people had their hats taken by the monkeys and a couple people who got in the way when they were climbing or jumping found themselves with monkeys on their backs. I can now honestly say how it feels to have a monkey on my back because one jumped on me! He jumped right off so it was no big deal, just gave me a surprise. The apes were cute and cuddly and I wanted to hold them but of course did not. The babies were really cute. It was really fun to watch them. All the monkeys have names and are cared for by the government so they looked fat and happy. Most of my Gibraltar pictures are of monkeys!! Anyway, at the top of the Rock the views were spectacular and we could see the strategic importance of this piece of land and why so many battles have been fought to control it. We were told that though Gibraltar is currently a British protectorate, Spain would like it back and negotiations between the two governments occur periodically. The residents have voted repeatedly not to become part of Spain so Gibraltar will stay as it is for now. At one point we went inside the Rock and toured one of the Great Siege Caves built in the days of Admiral Nelson and used again and expanded during WWII. We also went to the southernmost tip of the country and stood at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea, looking across a short distance to Africa and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. The Atlantic seemed to be calling to us as that is the way home.

Malta

We were not able to go onshore in Split, Croatia due to high winds and rough seas. The one advance tender that tried to venture to shore was tossed around pretty badly and it took a lot of maneuvering to ultimately get it returned and safely secured to the ship. No one complained about not being able to get to the city after watching the tender’s struggle. So we pulled up anchor and headed to Malta. Malta replaced Libya on our itinerary after we were denied clearance from the government. How fortunate for us, as Malta proved to be an exceptional port to visit. Malta has had a long history of conquerors from Salaman the Magnificent during the Ottoman Empire, the Romans, the Knights of the Holy Crusade, and the British to name a few. They have been independent since the early 70s. It is a prosperous and thriving country with many impressive castles, palaces and churches left from each of the conquering nations. The most magnificent site and a must see for any visitor is St John’s Co-Cathedral. It was built in the late 1500’s and the floor is lined with marble slabs, beneath each is a tomb of a knight. Each slab is decorated with designs and phrases identifying the knight’s life and personality. The church is adorned with the Maltese Cross which was representative of the Knights of Malta. The 8 point cross represents the Knight’s values of “live in truth, maintain faith, repent sins, give proof of humility, love justice, be merciful, be sincere and whole-hearted, and endure persecution”. Goods words to live by indeed! There are elaborate paintings and sculptures throughout the cathedral, including 2 major paintings by the famous artist Caravaggio. This church is in the current capital city called Valleta, which is also the port city. The old capital is called Mdina and is a walled city called the “silent city”. The streets are narrow and the buildings are medieval looking. Walking through the streets is like going back in time, at least until a car or truck tries to pass through the narrow street. Mdina is still home to a few wealthy families, but is now composed of a hotel, restaurants and shops. Horse drawn carriages can take you through the city as well as anywhere on the island for that matter. Malta has an old world charm but also offers a modern and safe environment. We had a wonderful lunch at an outdoor café across from the Cathedral with Maltese pizza and the local beer. The night before we dined at an outdoor café next to the pier called Casanova’s and had great Italian food. The official language is Maltese which is a combination of Arabic, Italian, Latin and a little Spanish which shows how the country has incorporated the languages of the cultures who ruled the country in the past. I'd come back to Malta again!!!

Venice, Italy

The morning we sailed into Venice the weather was chilly and overcast but the views were spectacular! We sailed right past St Mark’s Square and Doge’s Palace, places we would visit later but had a great view and photo op on the sail-in. The ship docked in the Piazzale Roma area and from here we could take a shuttle boat to the heart of the city. Our first day we visited the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is the island where hundreds of years ago the city fathers moved all the glass furnaces to reduce the chance of fire for the main city. Today it is the home of the famous Murano glass. We visited one of the furnaces and watched a master glass-blower make a work of art right before our eyes. We were extremely cold after the 45 minute boat trip so being near the furnace felt really great. We had some time to walk through the shops selling beautiful (and expensive) glass vases, bowls, chandeliers and all sorts of jewelry. Next we sailed to Burano, about 15 minutes away. As we approached Burano you could see the colorful houses, some red, yellow, green and even purple! On Burano, each family paints their house a different color. The colors make the town a bright and cheerful welcoming sight – even in the cold and drizzle we were experiencing at the time. Burano was an old fishing village but now it is home to several lace factories, its current specialty. We walked through the picturesque and quaint village and visited the lace shops and also found a wide selection of the Carnivale masks. The next day we had a marvelous tour of Doge’s Palace, the elaborate home of the Venetian government hundreds of years ago. There we saw the paintings of Tintoretto and Veronese among the ornate gold and wood designs. The Doge’s Palace housed a functioning seat of government so there were meeting chambers, offices and courtrooms for hearing criminal cases. Because justice was swift and punishment severe back then, there was also a prison connected to the Palace. When someone was found guilty they were sent directly through a small and narrow chamber and over the Bridge of Sighs to the stark and cold stone prison. We got to walk the narrow walkway and visit some of the cells. It was quite a contrast from the magnificent and elaborate furnishings and décor of the Palace. Directly outside the Palace is St Mark’s Cathedral and of course the Square. After a short wait in line we were able to walk inside the Cathedral. The Cathedral had a dark and gothic-like feel to me but was still stunning with its ornate Golden Altar, dome and bronze horses. After being immersed in the rich history and culture of Venice it was time for a stroll through the shops and bridges around St Mark’s Square. We saw a gondola and gondolier on one of the small canals but didn’t take a ride. (Cost was 80 Euros!) The weather was much better the second day we were in port – warmer and sunny – so we could really enjoy just being there and savoring the experience.

Santorini, Greece

As we approached the Greek isle of Santorini, it looked like there was snow high up on the mountainous top of the island. Upon closer inspection, these were white houses perched on top of this gorgeous island! We were tendered from the ship to Athinos pier. From there we took a winding bus ride up to the top of the highest peak on the island, called the Mountain of Prophet Elias. From this vantage point the views were spectacular. Then on to Oia, pronounced eea, for a visit to this lovely and quaint village. All the homes were white with blue trim. It was fun to explore the shops and galleries high up on the island, each view better than the next. We found a coffee shop and sat on a tiny balcony perched over the edge of the mountain and had coffee and bakalava. That experience will stay with me forever! Next we went to Fira, the largest city on the island. It was also filled with white buildings and narrow cobblestone alleys and walkways. I did a little exploring (shopping) and Jim found a great coffee shop with an internet café. When it was time to go back to the ship we had 3 options for getting down the mountain. One was a cable car, there was a long winding stairway of irregular cobblestone steps that you could walk on foot or you could ride a donkey down the steps!! I rode the donkey and Jim took the cable car. The donkeys know how to make their way carefully down the steps and it was a fun way to see the beauty of the island as we slowly made our way down. In contrast, Jim said the cable car took less than a couple minutes. Santorini ranks as one of our most favorite ports on this magnificent voyage and I hope we can come back someday!!

Sevastopol, Ukraine

The Ukraine has its act together and is far more modernized and tourist-friendly than Sochi, Russia. It clearly demonstrated how a previously Russian city, now independent, could prosper and grow. There were organized tour companies and very eloquent and knowledgeable guides. Their spoken English was flawless. We had a fascinating tour of the city which focused on the city’s victories during the Crimean War. It seemed they wanted to forget their time as part of Russia, and focus on the historic development of the city. That was fine with us. Sevastopol’s strategic harbor has a major significance for the defense of the city from the ancient past to modern times. The harbor was once the home of the Russian Naval fleet. In the split from Russian, the most hotly contested issue was the disposition of the vessels. It took 7 years of negotiation to come to an agreement. It was finally decided that Russia would keep 80% of the vessels and Ukraine, 20%. The Russian ships have been moved and the remaining ships in Sevastopol are now part of the coast guard for the city. We visited a Russian Orthodox Church called St Vladimir’s and saw the graves of several famous sea captains from the Crimean War era. We also visited a wonderful Panoramic Museum depicting a famous battle and then actually went to the site. It was a good visit and we really felt that the Ukraine and its people had much to offer.

Sochi, Russia

We arrived in the port of Sochi, Russia on a cold and rainy day. It stayed that way all day which made the visit a dreary one, even for Russia. The Russian people we met were nice but not overly concerned about our being there. Sochi is a resort town on the Black Sea where working class Russian people went for holidays. It is composed of many spa/hotels, none of them luxurious, and outdoor amusements like miniature golf and parks. The town is separated from the rest of Russia by the Caucasian Mountains. The city was recently picked to host the 2014 Winter Olympics based on its mountain resorts and ski facilities. A short drive to the base of the mountains is an area called Zelyonaya Roscha (Green Grove). It was here that Joseph Stalin built his dacha or summer home. Stalin’s dacha has been partially restored after years of neglect and is now used as a tourist attraction for the city of Sochi. Although most of his personal belongings and furnishings were stolen, a few remain and are placed as they were when he was there. They even have a wax figure of him sitting at his desk! It was an interesting and historical visit. The feel of Sochi in general was kind of cold, somewhat stark – what you might expect of a city recovering from years of Communism. Sochi is clearly trying to develop and grow and hosting the 2014 Winter Olympics should give the city a major boost. It just seems they have a lot of work to do before 2014!

Istanbul, Turkey

From the minute we sailed in to the port it was apparent that Istanbul was special. The history alone was mind boggling to think this city was the seat of the Byzantine Empire when it was Constantinople and the heart of the Orthodox religion. As we sailed in we saw the splendor of the mosques and palaces that were built centuries ago but still stand in proud glory and are beautifully maintained by the Turkish people. It’s hard to describe all the history that makes Istanbul. You really have to see it to begin to fully comprehend and in our 2 days we just scratched the surface. We made the most of our time though and made it to all the major sites. We saw the Hippodrome in the heart of the old part of the city where chariot races took place. We visited the Blue Mosque, the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet. It is called the Blue Mosque because inside there are thousands of blue tiles covering the walls. It is a mosque still in use today but we were allowed inside in a separate viewing area. Next we visited the Hagia Sofia which for many years was the largest church in the world. It was a Greek Orthodox Church built in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian but later converted to a mosque after the take over of the city during the Ottoman Empire. It was declared a national monument in 1935 and is now a museum. Some of the original Orthodox mosaics have been uncovered so the church now displays a mix of Muslim and Orthodox religious symbolism. The Topkapi Palace was another fabulous stop on our tour. It was built by Sultan Mehmet II. The Byzantine Empire was defeated by the Ottoman invaders at this site. It is a huge palace with many buildings to support the Sultan, his family and his support staff. The kitchens can feed 5000 people. The Harem building is where the Sultan, his wives, concubines, favorites and eunuchs lived and is still pretty much as it was centuries ago. The Ottoman Empire was vast and took riches from all over the world in their conquests. On display at the Palace is the famous Topkapi Dagger with emeralds the size of eggs and an 86 carat diamond pendant called the Spoonmaker’s Diamond. We had lunch in a restaurant near the Palace and enjoyed a traditional Turkish meal complete with Turkish coffee. VERY strong and bitter!! The last stop included a visit to the Grand Bazaar which was originally the stables for the Sultan’s horses but has for hundreds of years in recent history been a market area for the local people. Today it is a tourist destination and the market is full of stall after stall of carpet salesmen, belly dancer outfits, jewelry, knock off purses, tee shirts, and on and on. There are a few cafes and Jim had a Turkish coffee while I wondered around. The vendors were persistent but friendly and I came close to buying a belly dancer costume but we couldn’t agree on a price. (Thank goodness!!) The last evening we were in Istanbul, Holland America gave us a huge party in the Binbirdirek Cistern, an ancient underground water canal. The 1001 columned cistern was built in 330AD to hold water for Lavsus Palace. The cistern was restored recently to meet safety requirements as a tourist attraction and for the evening was converted into a Turkish party palace with tables, couches, candles, bars and food preparations everywhere. This party was open to all passengers who wanted to attend and most did. There was entertainment, belly dancers, fire eaters and folk dancers. The American Ambassador for Turkey attended and our host was the President of Holland America Line, Stein Kruse. The liquor flowed and everyone seemed to have a great time. Back on the ship, the party continued with a dessert extravaganza with a Turkish theme. More free liquor and lots of frivolity by the crew all dressed in Turkish robes and turbans. There was even a magic carpet flying above the Lido Pool!! As we left the dock there was a fireworks display. It was a late but exciting and fun evening and I must say HAL did it up in style for us. It really capped a tremendous visit to an amazing city. I highly recommend Istanbul to all.