Beautiful Bali

There was great excitement on the ship the morning we arrived in Bali, Indonesia. Many of the dining room crew were eager to be home – even for a brief stop – and see their families. This would be the first time several of the guys had seen their family in over a year. The waters around Pandangbai – the port area, are shallow and subject to extreme fluctuations with the tides, sometimes making it impossible to navigate. We had to anchor a good distance away from the port and then tender in. Because of the shallow depths, the tenders could not be filled to capacity so it was slow getting to shore. I felt especially sorry for the crew, who had to wait until all the passengers were ashore before they could leave to meet their families. When were arrived at the dock we were warmly greeted. Bali was as eager for our visit as we were to be there. There were banners and a beautifully decorated walkway with brightly dressed female dancers in traditional attire and a Balinese band making strange yet melodic rhythms. Prior to our arrival in Bali, the Indonesian crew had been coaching us in how to speak a few phrases in Bahasa, the Indonesian language. The most important phrase we learned was “tidak terima kashi” or No thank you! This phrase was extremely useful for once we left the pier area we were besieged by aggressive street vendors hawking cloths, puppets and wood carvings. After we made our way to the tour bus we were whisked away from the chaos at the pier to the amazing and beautiful countryside of Bali. The main religion on the island is Hinduism and everywhere there were little shrines with offerings of fruit and flowers to the Gods. Wherever you looked there were statues of the Gods in all shapes and sizes wrapped with colorful scarves around their bodies. One of our stops was an outside theater which looked like a huge shrine. There were statues of Gods on both sides of a large set of concrete steps. At the top of the many steps were 2 huge golden doors. There was an orchestra called a gamelan which consisted of a variety of strange percussion instruments in a covered pavilion to the side of this structure. When the 2 golden doors opened the Barong dance began as the performers would enter and leave through the doors. It was quite a spectacle with elaborate costumes, dance and music. The Barong Dance tells the story of the good god Barong’s fight with the evil witch Rangla. Good always triumphs over evil so of course, Barong won and everyone lived happily ever after in Bali. Later we visited the wood carvers in the city of Ubud and the artist colony in Mas. During our tour we saw temples of all sizes, terraced rice fields and lots and lots of motorcycles, the main form of transportation on the island’s narrow and winding roads. The flowers and vegetation are lush and exotic. The air smells of frangipani. Bali is truly an island paradise!

Update and FYI

I neglected to include in my Perth description an item of interest to our daughters. While in Perth we visited a beautiful beach on the Indian Ocean called Cotteloe Beach. This was the site of Heath Ledger’s wake and where his ashes were scattered in the ocean. According to our guide, he loved to come here when he lived in Perth. We took lots of pictures. It was a gorgeous beach so I can understand why he liked it so much.
Now for the update – we’re on day 3 of the 3 sea days it takes to get from Perth, Australia to Bali, Indonesia. Shortly after we left Perth, we were informed that a cyclone named Nicholas was now directly in our path. The Captain advised that he was monitoring its position and would take preventive measures as needed. Yesterday the Captain announced that the storm was still headed for us so we would have to alter our course. Instead of sailing due north, we would have to head west north west to avoid the worst part of the storm. We were told to expect rough seas around 3PM that day for that was the time we would be closest to the storm, but still 200 nautical miles from its eye. We did have some rough seas but nothing like we’d experienced on the Tasman Sea and after a few hours the waters calmed. So just in case you were watching the Weather Channel and were concerned – we are safe! The seas are moderate today. It’s about 80 degrees and sunny and we are looking forward to seeing the Indonesian crew reunited with their families tomorrow.
Another point of interest we learned today is that the ship has now installed large round disks on the outside decks called L.R.A.D, long range acoustic devices. There are now security guards manning these devices 24/7. The water hoses have been removed from their containers and are spread out on the deck also. We were told these are security measures to deter pirates or other bad guys from trying to board the ship. The veteran world cruisers say this is standard operating procedure for this part of the world. For us, it represents an interesting and sad commentary on the state of world affairs. Do not be alarmed. The ship is merely doing what it is supposed to do to look out for our safety at all times.

Australia - 3 Ports of Call

We began our entrance into Sydney Harbour at about 6AM, on Feb. 9. It was a cloudy and rainy morning so we went to the uppermost indoor deck to observe. Sydney Harbour is protected by 2 land masses called the North and South Heads. Since the harbor is long and winding some of the early explorers like Capt. James Cook, passed it up thinking it was not suitable. Boy, was he wrong! After what seemed like an hour we had our first glimpse of the iconic symbol of Sydney – the Opera House. I got goose bumps seeing it for the first time. Then came the famous Harbour Bridge. It was hard to believe we were actually seeing this in person. The ship docked at the Overseas Passenger Terminal which happens to be a short walk from the Opera House. So far the next 2 days we were in Sydney, the Opera House was right next door! Later we took a rainy, damp tour of the city. We toured the Opera House and sat in the concert hall to hear the fabulous acoustics and the auditorium to observe a set being assembled for an upcoming play. The architecture was stunning and we learned the history of how and why the structure was built. Another place we visited was the famous Bondi Beach. Even in a slight drizzle there were many surfers riding the waves on this gorgeous beach. Later in the day we walked and shopped in downtown Sydney and ended up in a trendy section near the dock called “The Rocks”. We were tired and thirsty and had our first taste of James Squire ale. I had 2 “middies” or medium (small) size glasses. Next day the sun was shining and we took a cruise of Sydney Harbour on one of the small ferry boats that operate regularly all around Sydney. They took us to all the coves and bays up and down the full length of the harbor. At one cove we passed a nude beach complete with naked sunbathers proudly waving at us as we sailed by. Tea was served during the trip which was very civilized we thought! When we got back, the dock was full of street musicians and artists and food stands so we hung out as long as we could with the locals. We were sorry to have to return to the ship. (Before we did though, we went back for another glass of that ale!!!)
The ship left Sydney Harbour around 8PM and we watched from the aft outside deck as the Opera House and Harbour Bridge disappeared. It was a clear night and as we left we saw the Southern Cross officially for the first time. (Southern Cross is the famous constellation only visible in the Southern Hemisphere. We think we saw it in New Zealand but we didn’t have anyone around us at the time who could verify that it was indeed the Southern Cross.)
After a day at sea we docked in Melbourne. The port was a long way from the city so we hopped on the local tram (#109) and made our way into town. Melbourne reminded me a lot of Sydney, very cosmopolitan, hip and clean but without the beautiful harbor. The trams were the chief means of transportation in and around the city. They were great – no graffiti, people were courteous, modern, clean and safe – very refreshing!!! We went to the Botanical Gardens (think city park) and saw the Australian magpie for the first time. This is a large black and white bird and it makes a sweet chirping sound. They were all around and I enjoyed them more than the gardens.
Australia is a vast land. Our next port of call was Perth on the western side of the country. It took us 3 sea days at 20 knots to get there from Melbourne. During this trek, we sailed through Bass Straight, known for its rough seas, then westward in the Southern Ocean, which separates Australia from Antarctica and finally north in the Indian Ocean. The W.A. was worth the wait!! (The locals use the initials, W.A. when speaking of Western Australia.) We docked in the Port of Fremantle which is about 20 miles from Perth. Fremantle is a quaint port town and we had time to walk around, call the kids and shop before heading to Perth. Lovely, lovely Perth on the Indian Ocean and the Swan River. Beautiful beyond description. We visited their city park called King’s Gardens. Here we walked some of the many trails through the grounds and saw exotic plants, trees and wildlife. There was the smell of Eucalyptus in the air from the many varieties of Eucalyptus trees and a symphony of birds chirping and singing. We saw black cockatoos flying from tree to tree, wild parakeets, ravens and more Australian magpies. To top it off, on a nearby lake, we saw hundreds of graceful black swans. Perth is a city of 1.5 million people. It’s the only city of any size in the whole W.A. but what a city it is! We both agreed we had to come back. Perth was my favorite of our 3 stops in Australia but Australia in general is a place no one should miss. It is so far away but so worth the trip!!!

A Wild Day at Sea!

As we entered the Tasman Sea around 8PM the water was as smooth as glass. At about 4AM the next morning I was awakened by some sharp movements of the ship. These were stronger than any pitches or rolls I’d felt before but it didn’t seem too bad. As the morning progressed things got worse. We went up to breakfast to find that most of the water had sloshed out of the main Lido pool and the crew was draining what was left. The ship was rocking and rolling and the sky was overcast. There were dark rain clouds on the horizon. We saw lots of whitecaps and the swells seemed to get bigger and bigger. Around noon it started to rain and the wind really started howling. We couldn’t open the door to our verandah because the pressure was so strong. The captain made his 1PM announcement and said we were in Force 10 winds on the Balfour scale and the seas were rough. (No lie) He also said not to go on any outside deck. By this time the waves were crashing up to our verandah on Deck 6. Deck 3, the Promenade Deck was constantly drenched with wave after wave of angry sea. One of the glass doors that opens onto Deck 3 was cracked when the force of the wind pulled it away from some curious (but not smart) passenger. Few people were out of their cabins and we noticed barf bags were now deployed at many locations throughout the ship. The ship creaked and bumped and shuttered and there was no place you couldn’t hear it or feel it. We tried to keep our minds off the situation as best we could but it was impossible not to be a little concerned. Neither of us ever got seasick, although many people did. I remember walking up the steps at one point when the ship was cresting a huge swell. As I took a step up I felt weightless for a second as I was sort of suspended in mid-air waiting for the ship to come back down. Pretty amazing! We decided to keep things as close to normal as possible so we got all dressed up for dinner since it was supposed to be a formal night. Now I know how important the rails in the shower are, as I held on for dear life while trying to wash my hair. This was around 6PM and it seemed that the ship was the worst we’d felt it. Apparently, during this time the early diners were really tossed about and the waiters dropped several dishes and broke many glasses trying to serve dinner. When we got to dinner at 8PM things were still rocking and rolling but it seemed slightly less. There were only a few of us who had made it to the dining room. The waiters were a little freaked out by all this also and we held onto our wine glasses the whole time to avoid any spills. It was a strange evening in the dining room. We saw the Navigator who said we had passed through the eye of the gale and were on the way out of the storm. That was the best news we had heard all day!! We went to bed that night but neither of us slept. It was still pretty scary. It seems around 3AM that the wind stopped sounding so loud and we were back to the more normal movements of the ship. By 6AM it was calm seas and clearer skies. We were exhausted but thankful it was over. We hugged each other and said “We survived!”

Christchurch, Dunnedin and Fiordland

We docked in the port town of Lyttleton, which is a short distance from the city of Christchurch. There are mountains separating the port city of Lyttleton from the flat valley where Christchurch is located. There are 2 ways to get to Christchurch. The old way is over the mountain on winding roads or paths. The new way is through a tunnel through the mountain. We were able to experience both ways to get to Christchurch. We took the mountain pass called Dyers Pass. It wound around and around the mountain on narrow 2 lane roads with steep inclines. I should say it was a dreary cloudy day with lots of drizzle so this added to the “excitement” of going over the pass. Along the way we saw many sheep grazing sideways up and down the mountain. The ride was beautiful but I was glad to make it to the other side. The second way to Christchurch is the tunnel. The tunnel is about 2 miles long and takes you right through the mountain. Very fast but not as picturesque. Christchurch was as you might expect full of quaint old churches. In the city center we found the old Cathedral. For $5 NZ, you could climb the steps in the steeple. Since it was cold and rainy we passed and instead had a hot chocolate at the Starbuck’s across the street from the church! (Yes, a Starbucks, not to mention a McDonalds, Subway and Burger King not too far away.) The city center was really very cosmopolitan for a small town on the South Island however. There were many little trendy shops and small cafes and a wonderful little Trolley that ran through the city to all the major tourist stops. While in Christchurch we visited a historic Victorian house now preserved and maintained by the city called Mona Vale. There we were treated to an English tea. We had scones and cucumber sandwiches. I learned the proper way to eat the scones is that you first spread some butter on a piece, then jam and on top you put clotted cream! Wow – a new taste sensation but definitely not approved by Jenny Craig! After tea we walked through the Botanical Gardens and along the Avon River which is a lovely small stream through the city. There are punts, which are long flat boats that are propelled by a man with a long stick, that you can take for a ride on the Avon. All very British indeed! Again we were entranced with another different but wonderful city in New Zealand.
The next morning the sun was shining and we were in Dunnedin, actually docked in Port Chalmers which is a short drive away. We had a tour of the city and our guide Stuart told us that the day was like a “box of fluffies”. This apparently means it’s all good or something like that. We also learned that the New Zealanders call children “wee dots”. These were 2 of Stuart’s favorite phrases. Our first stop was Baldwin Street, which is supposed to be the world’s steepest city street. The Cadbury Chocolate Company is located in Dunnedin and every year the company sponsors a charity event where they roll 20,000 “lollies” (lollipops) down the street and people buy chances to catch the lollies as they roll because one contains a valuable prize. After a drive through the city and a stop near the Cadbury Chocolate plant we are taken to Olverton House. This was one of the original family homes in Dunnedin and is remarkably maintained. It has all the original furniture and decoration exactly as the family left it. It was an interesting tour and an informative lesson in the history of this quaint and lovely city. After the tour we had time to shop and knock around on our own. We happened upon the Seafarer’s Club in Port Chalmers, a short walk from the ship. It’s a place the town of Port Chalmers has set up for sea travelers to come and relax and it offered FREE internet (!! )and cheap phone cards. There was also a black and white cat sleeping on the couch in the lounge area which made it a very special place for sure. We visited with the nice lady who oversees the club and she gave us a free phone card as well. A lot of the crew of the Amsterdam had found this spot also. Ever since arriving in New Zealand, all our guides told us to try “hokey pokey ice cream”. I was able to sample this delight in Port Chalmers and while very tasty, not any better than good old Ben and Jerry’s Cherry Garcia. Dunnedin was a relaxing and fun stop.
After Dunnedin, we set off to view the area called Fiordland on the western side of the South Island. The ship arrived at Dusky Sound around 8am the next day after we left Dunnedin. We then slowly proceeded to cruise in and out of the sound while everyone admired the scenery and looked for wildlife. After Dusky Sound we cruised up the coast and then entered Doubtful Sound. We saw high peaks and beautiful waterfalls along the way, each one more splendid than the previous one. Finally by late afternoon we entered Milford Sound, the highlight and most famous of the Fiordland wilderness. As we sailed in the water was smooth and the sun was shining. We cruised to the end of the sound and then the ship slowly turned around. As we turned the captain announced that we were now going to begin heading out to the Tasman Sea to begin our journey to Australia.

New Zealand - Auckland and Wellington

We woke up and realized we had docked in Auckland. I looked out our window and at first thought we were docked next to another cruise ship. Upon further inspection I realized it was actually a hotel, Hilton Inn, painted white and made to look like a cruise ship with balconies. The lower windows were round resembling large portholes. The dock was a flurry of activity with forklifts already moving palettes of supplies unto the ship. After several weeks in the South Pacific islands, the ship was running low on provisions. (God forbid we wouldn’t have enough food or drink for everyone!!! )
Still on the ship, we could see some of the tall buildings of the city skyline and the impressive Sky Tower, the Southern Hemisphere’s tallest tower. I couldn’t wait to get ashore to see the sights. We had a short tour of the area with a trip to the top of the dormant volcanic crater called Mt Pukekawa, the Harbour Bridge and the Auckland War Memorial Museum. Auckland is nicknamed the “City of Sails” and with good reason. The harbors are filled with all kinds of sailboats and yachts. Auckland is the home of the America’s Cup team for New Zealand and there is a whole new area along the waterfront called America’s Cup Village. After our tour we took off on a walk around the central city area. It was so very nice to see this modern, clean and very sea-loving city up close. The people were extremely friendly, the Kiwis they call themselves, and we were treated well wherever we went. The population seemed relatively young with a mix of Maori, Asian and Indonesian people as well as the native Kiwis. We ate lunch at a trendy harbor side restaurant and had one of the local beers called Monteith’s Golden ale and it was great! We found some interesting shops, along with a few American standbys like McDonalds and Burger King and bought a few souvenirs. We also found a drug store and stocked up on a few necessities that we couldn’t find while in French Polynesia. All in all we loved Auckland and were sorry we didn’t have more time to explore. We got back on board shortly before sail away and spent a long time out on the outside decks as we left the dock and sailed out of Waitemata Harbour. The ship had to sound its horn many times as we left because the harbor was full of all sizes of sailboats not too concerned about our large vessel getting too close to them. We were told the Kiwis were fearless and they proved it! The first taste of New Zealand left me wanting more. After a sea day we’ll visit Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin and then spend some time cruising Milford Sound before heading for Sydney, Australia.

We arrived in Wellington on a beautiful, sunny day. There was a slight chill in the air but it was really quite comfortable. Today we were scheduled for our “special kiwi event”. This event was provided to guests who had booked a verandah cabin and above and was totally complimentary. We knew where and when to pick up the bus and that we were to dress “elegant casual”. We weren’t quite sure how elegant we looked but off we went anyway. We begin our event with a bus tour around the city. We saw the Parliament building, downtown shopping area and were taken to the top of Mt. Victoria for panoramic views of the city and harbor. The scenery was breathtaking! After several photo stops, we headed back into town for lunch. We were taken to the newly restored City Hall Building for a 4 course luncheon in the main auditorium/theater. This historic building was in pristine condition and beautifully decorated with chandeliers and banners. There was a large stage in the front of the room and behind the stage a magnificent huge pipe organ. Needless to say, we were impressed. We were escorted to finely decorated tables and offered our choice of water, wine or beer. I chose another local beer recommended by our server, called Spreict’s. The brewery is in Dunnedin, NZ, which we would visit the next day. At this point the lights were dimmed and in walk several large Maori warriors blowing a welcome signal on huge shells. The show has begun! Several more Maori men and women appeared on the stage and we were treated to various dances and chants. We then were welcomed by the Mayor of Wellington, a lovely woman dressed in a flowing robe depicting her status. After the first 3 courses were served, we see coming from under the stage, 2 men dressed as New Zealand sheep farmers and a huge sheep! A real live sheep!! This begins the second part of our entertainment during which we see a demonstration of sheep shearing on another live sheep. We saw sheep dogs herding live geese, a cow being milked and several baby lambs being fed. All on the stage in the beautiful City Hall building – it was amazing and really quite fun. There were lots of laughs and audience participation. After dessert was served, we left but not without a gift from the cruise line. We each received a beautiful Merino wool scarf! We left with a wonderful feeling about Wellington and both agreed we had to come back! I cried as the ship left the harbor when we saw and heard a girl’s bagpipe ensemble playing “Amazing Grace” on the dock below us. There really is something wonderful about New Zealand!!!!